mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

4-Cyl. Technical/Performance Discussions
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

ah i got a 70 amp one it looks similiar when it comes i need to get the bolt for it then do it the new timing belt cover is great. i just hope my alt belt doesnt brake. i ordered all the swaybar links too. i have a question on distributors

well can i do some kinda of performance upgrade on the distributor itself? or should i just keep the one i got i got a standards cap and rotor and something like performance standards wires all i know is theyre blue. and i put the msd blaster 2. should i also get the msd blaster wire to goto the cap? not sure if that makes much of a difference. i want to put an electric gague and air fuel ratio and a turbo but not hook it up yet or maybe oil pressure im not sure. i need to put another oil pan i tight one of the rear bolts too tight and it went in and i didnt know it was going to make a big deal oh well at least ebay has it for 28 bucks :) hopefully tomorrow ill be doing that gear box fluid flush and that damn o ring and get my inspection to pass. i hate gear oil it smells so raunchy i hate it as much as working on the gas line. i bet ill hate working on the brake lines too. smh and mostly the antifreeze problem is almost gone but its leaving my fuel inject all screwy idk ill see in a week or two. and i got a flat tonight drove it all around then when i goto park it then thats it i fill it with air and see its the sidewall is cracked the tire is old. so back to the junkyard tomorrow. going to wait put the swaybars and get all new tires and an alignment
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PERFORMANCE-CHI ... e7&vxp=mtr

can you make anything of that ebay item? a hoax or something worth buying even if it only does a little bit its only 10 bucks
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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Evo_Spec
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by Evo_Spec »

it's a complete scam, a whole exhaust system barely gets you 10hp with our cars, let alone 75hp.
if you want to give it a shot, go ahead, but i wouldn't recommend it
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

ahh i was looking at a bunch of other things. they got sum resisters and they got sum adapter resister thing for the intake. because the stock doesnt suck in enoujgh. i can see a resister makes it intake more but idk whats a good one that will work i saved a few things last night to look at later i just dont have the time yet
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

so how exactly could i tune this engine to push more other then putting a turbo? and other then an exhaust i do need one idk what one to get but i dont want it to be too loud but i want the performance aspect of it tho. but i want to do whatever i can to make it quicker. there was so much more power in it before idk why i do want to bleed the clutch that maybe thats why its however it is but what could i do tho? i put an msd ignition blaster only so far
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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cWs306
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by cWs306 »

cold air intake K&n filter? new spark plugs and wires cap n rotor? new headers and exhaust? nitrous? light weight flywheel and new clutch.
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by Ryan »

adding power to a car means you have to do exactly one thing:

add more air.

updating your ignition system, clutch, and lightening your rotating assembly 'frees up' power, but you don't make any more.

cams move the pumping efficiency point of the engine to a different place, which could net more air and therefore torque higher up, yielding more HP. intake/exahust can compliment this effect (or make it worse if you don't know what you're doing) Stock intake is probably the best power on stock cams and exhaust. CAI just sounds pretty, and probably robs some of your low down Tq. exhaust is the same idea.

A tune can move your ignition and fuel events to a place to get closer to mean brake torque (max possible power tune) but you start to lose your drivability, reliability, longevity, and safety factor. A bad batch of fuel or a high baro day could pop your motor if you tune too close to the edge.

so you're looking at bore/stroke/turbo/super to make more power, as well as management to deal with the upgrades.


In my MX-3 experience, I suggest a BP swap. Can be done for under $1000 easily, and $500 in a pinch. 50hp bam like that, can't beat the bang-for-buck.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnet-Fuel-Gas ... 78&vxp=mtr

what about this magnetized thing for the fuel. a scam too?
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

i looked at jdm for a btp 2010hp turbo engine but they dont have it, so i fear im stuck with this engine. so its why i need to think of what i can do other then overhauling the whole thing. i pretty much did everything over on this car i was some more speed i dont want to tune it out like crazy but i mean idk it comes stock with 88hp i guess generally speaking if i was to do a few modifications how high could i get it up to? i know the tq is higher then the hp i like that if i drop a turbo on itlater thatll be good but for now i want to get over 130 if i can in hp but i dont know if thatll work deff over 110 if i can idk the range. can you give me an idea on what i should do?
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

cWs306 wrote:cold air intake K&n filter? new spark plugs and wires cap n rotor? new headers and exhaust? nitrous? light weight flywheel and new clutch.
i have the stock intake sensor i put a adapter on the front of it and put a air filter on the stock. i got the 12 dollar spark plugs and the wires cap and rotor was changed a long time ago when i had the car. even so if i am to change the wires and cap an rotor should i go with something performance? what about a performance distributor? with the cap and wires.

if not an just OEM i do have the msd blaster. should i get the 5th wire as the msd blaster wire? i got the general blue beck and something brand. i think i have aftermarket cap and rotor from the autoparts store but its all still clean tho if i have to replace it id rather try to upgrade it you know
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

Ryan wrote:adding power to a car means you have to do exactly one thing:

add more air.

updating your ignition system, clutch, and lightening your rotating assembly 'frees up' power, but you don't make any more.

cams move the pumping efficiency point of the engine to a different place, which could net more air and therefore torque higher up, yielding more HP. intake/exahust can compliment this effect (or make it worse if you don't know what you're doing) Stock intake is probably the best power on stock cams and exhaust. CAI just sounds pretty, and probably robs some of your low down Tq. exhaust is the same idea.

A tune can move your ignition and fuel events to a place to get closer to mean brake torque (max possible power tune) but you start to lose your drivability, reliability, longevity, and safety factor. A bad batch of fuel or a high baro day could pop your motor if you tune too close to the edge.

so you're looking at bore/stroke/turbo/super to make more power, as well as management to deal with the upgrades.


In my MX-3 experience, I suggest a BP swap. Can be done for under $1000 easily, and $500 in a pinch. 50hp bam like that, can't beat the bang-for-buck.

is there something i can do to the stock intake to make it suck in more? i notice on the 03 camry the way it is the intake is sucking in at a high rate so once i hit the gas it goes quick. anyway i could make the inside work like the camry?


as for the ignition i put an msd blaster. should i get the msd wire to go with it?
i was thinking of putting a performance distributor and cap and rotor to go along with the msd blaster
and i got the 12 dollar plugs ngk dont know what else there is to it. air fuel ratio? or air fuel pressure something like that. if i changed that small piece. put a performance one in there? idk where to find it though

what could i do with the clutch? it was changed shortly after i got the car it should still be good......i might have to bleed it though....

and what do you mean by lightening my rotating assembly?


whats cia?

and i plan to put some kind of exhaust system im not sure what one will work for my car and i want a nice performance one thats not loud though. not sure exactly what to get or where to get it...


and as for tune how would i do something like that? and what is the technical difference between a max tuned out and just tuned out a lot? i dont need to push it but really though whats the difference in the power?. i got too many civics around me and no one that owns them knows s--- about cars i want to show them up. i know i deff could if i put btp gtr engine 2010 stock turbo hp but i doubt ill be able to get that so i need to work with what i got. then move on.
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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Ryan
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by Ryan »

your intake does no sucking. A motor does no sucking. atmospheric pressure pushes air into your cylinders. I'm saying that the stock intake will make the best power on a stock engine, because it was designed around the torque characteristics of the motor, something you can't do without a lot of understanding and experience, and money.

CAI is Cold Air Intake. It sounds pretty, but probably reduces your torque output down low, because it will be less efficient than stock down low. if you're lucky it might add some HP higher up.

your ignition upgrades won't make you any more power. I wouldn't mess with your fuel pressure regulator unless you had a wideband O2 to see what it was actually doing to your AFR. More than likely you'd just confuse the hell out of the stock computer.

I'd leave your clutch. Clutches only really need replaced when they wear out or slip under the power.

Exhaust, on the B6, I probably wouldn't go bigger than 2". The effect of the exhaust is using the vacuum behind exhaust pulses to draw out the following exhaust charge. This effect is primarily tuned in through the primary runner lengths, and the secondary lengths if you have a 4-2-1 header. This will cause a bump in power at a certain RPM range (and removing that bump from the stock header point). Additionally, the entire resistance of the system (sometimes called back-pressure, more accurately called head-loss) can change the point where the pulses draw most from the following pulse. Making your exhaust too large moves this point out of your use-able RPM range. Making exhaust too small can put it very low.

In order to TUNE anything, you need to rip out the stock computer and replace it entirely, with something like MegaSquirt or an AEM unit. Then you need to read lots and lots about engine tuning, unless you have a lot of money.

Some success can be had with a piggy back unit, which is a little box that can change a few things, but the versatility is way less.

I think you just need to start reading. read lots, and then some more.

These ebay chips, and the fuel orientation magnet are all total bulls--- marketed towards people who don't have a hot clue about how engines work. read more, and you'll get a better grasp on what making more power requires.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by Nd4SpdSe »

Ryan wrote:I think you just need to start reading. read lots, and then some more.
:2thumbsup:
1992 Mazda Mx-3 GSR - 2.5L KLZE : Award Winning Show Car & Race Car ['02-'09] (Retired)
2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by cWs306 »

or use this 4cyl as parts car and find yourself a v6 mx3. 32hp gain right there. 112hp gain if u get the klze.
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wednesdayslatest
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Re: mx3 manual 1.6L transmission on base. need to change...

Post by wednesdayslatest »

Ryan wrote:your intake does no sucking. A motor does no sucking. atmospheric pressure pushes air into your cylinders. I'm saying that the stock intake will make the best power on a stock engine, because it was designed around the torque characteristics of the motor, something you can't do without a lot of understanding and experience, and money.

CAI is Cold Air Intake. It sounds pretty, but probably reduces your torque output down low, because it will be less efficient than stock down low. if you're lucky it might add some HP higher up.

your ignition upgrades won't make you any more power. I wouldn't mess with your fuel pressure regulator unless you had a wideband O2 to see what it was actually doing to your AFR. More than likely you'd just confuse the hell out of the stock computer.

I'd leave your clutch. Clutches only really need replaced when they wear out or slip under the power.

Exhaust, on the B6, I probably wouldn't go bigger than 2". The effect of the exhaust is using the vacuum behind exhaust pulses to draw out the following exhaust charge. This effect is primarily tuned in through the primary runner lengths, and the secondary lengths if you have a 4-2-1 header. This will cause a bump in power at a certain RPM range (and removing that bump from the stock header point). Additionally, the entire resistance of the system (sometimes called back-pressure, more accurately called head-loss) can change the point where the pulses draw most from the following pulse. Making your exhaust too large moves this point out of your use-able RPM range. Making exhaust too small can put it very low.

In order to TUNE anything, you need to rip out the stock computer and replace it entirely, with something like MegaSquirt or an AEM unit. Then you need to read lots and lots about engine tuning, unless you have a lot of money.

Some success can be had with a piggy back unit, which is a little box that can change a few things, but the versatility is way less.

I think you just need to start reading. read lots, and then some more.

These ebay chips, and the fuel orientation magnet are all total bulls--- marketed towards people who don't have a hot clue about how engines work. read more, and you'll get a better grasp on what making more power requires.



as for the intake i dont have the stock box anymore so i guess im SOL on that one ill just change the head it might be too old and dusty im thinking put a k&n air cyclone head on there. so theres nothing i can do to the intake to tweak it to take in more air?

fuel pressure regulator. ill change that maybe if i can find a performance one. theres this corner peice thats right before the fuel rail. my friends got the same car as me they changed that part and they said it gave better performance i forgot the name of the part ill talk to them later about it.

whats a wideband 02? and im not looking to sauder anything really just a few things i can throw on there to make it a little better. can i put some kind of performance distributor? i saw msd got a wire set with a cap and rotor and they DID have some kind of distributor.


so i can just use any 2 in pipe right? but i need a certain header, and cat, and resonator and muffler right? so if its just two inch pipe thats cool but what would you recommend for the headers and such? i do need to change the exhaust.

and i see about the tuning. well i think id just rather aim for a piggy back unit what do you think is good?
tuning will take too much time i dont want to rip out the computer if i dont have to....
BUT if i had to to put just one chip could you point out to me what kind of box. or is it just a performance box or is it specified for the mx3

i still need to do the brake lines and stuff but i want to get info from people first before i start doing things and wasting money. if anything i got a guy that could most likely help me with all that im learning everything from him. as for tuning stuff i think he knows but we never do that at the shop so if he knows i never been able to see him in action. maybe one day but he DID tune out these peoples cars in cali so they could race and he got money when they win the race and stuff.

any suggestions on what i should doto the car OTHER then a motorswap? if i could the only thing i would put is BTP GTR but thats imposable to find so i gave up. maybe ill put a turbo on this a long time later but for now just want to do a few things. i got some HID off ebay 8000k hopefully theyll be nice i only paid 35 bucks for it
03 Dodge Neon (rental i had for a month but i ran that into the ground for sure)
95 Chrysler Concorde (Junked my first car [still ran])
90 Nissan Stanza (Junked [wouldnt start one day])
89 Saab 9000 CD (sedan/turbo very fun but electrical problems[city towed away for no plates on private property])
94 Toyota Camry (mothers old car fixed it then broke it[dont ask] Junked)
93 MX-3 RS (My project for 3 years so far)
97 Honda Civshit (Beater/Stereotypical POS Honda im fixing)
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