Wytbishop - 93' GS SE ZE - The Purple..I mean Black.. Beast

[wytbishop]

OK...I've been driving with the new brakes for a week or so now. It stops much harder and I'm pretty happy. It's still not perfect though. My quest continues.

Here are some pictures from my phone...not the greatest but shows the new wheels nicely.







Edit...things to note about this brake upgrade:

1. I used Subaru calipers from a 94' Legacy Turbo Wagon and brackets from a 98 Millenia. The pads you choose must match the brackets, not the calipers. You will also need the shims and springs and stuff from a MIllenia or they won't be tight in there.

2. The MX-3 ball joints changed from the smaller post to the larger in Feb of 93'. The steering knuckles you need will come from a 98'+ 323F or Lantis and will require the larger post 02/93 ball joints. My 93' SE was built in late 92' and had the small ones. Pisser.

3. Apparently there are two different sizes of brake line. The point where the banjo fitting bolts to the caliper can have either a skinny neck or a fat neck.
The Subaru bracket uses the skinny one. My MX-3 had the right ones but I've heard that some people have run into this...so heads up.

If I think of more I'll add it.

[solo_ryder]

Looks good Wyt, the calipers are quite abit larger

[wytbishop]

Thanks. There's lots of room to fit a larger rotor with the 17's. I will be working on that now that everything is fitted.

I see 294mm Mini Cooper rotors in my future.

[wytbishop]

Kind of a big day today. I am finally starting the bodywork on the Purple Beast.

Here's a photo record of the issues which must be addressed...

Passenger door handle where an attempted break-in occurred...


Front passenger corner...little dent and a bunch of chips...


The front bumper I did last year isn't holding up so well. This is the major motivation for the finish I'm going to attempt. Also can't wait to get the fogs fixed and working.


Passenger's side rockers...not too bad...




Passenger rear wheel well...




There are lots of paint chips all over the car. This one is my fault...


The rear bumper has been in a collision at some point before I got it.



My personal favorite, the hole in the driver's door...


Rocker's not bad...


This corner doesn't look like much but it's probably the worst part of the whole thing because of the shape...


Driver's rear quarter is pretty bad...



So, I attacked the worst part first and cut the rear quarters. I decided it was best to do this now so that I can gauge how I'm going to cut the patch panels.

The driver's side had a big sctratch there above the fuel door that had been touched up by the previous owner. Passenger's side wasn't as bad. I ground them both down, cut the bad stuff out and put a bit of primer on 'em to keep it from being exposed while I finish the rest.



I cut through the bumper to get to the stuff underneath because the bumper's trash and I didn't want to remove it at this time. I also spent an hour or so on the hood grinding out all the chips and put a coat of primer on it.

More updates to follow and a cool suprise at the end. Next week...patch panels!!!

[AaronTietje]

Wow that's a ton of work you've got yourself into. Glad to see you getting rid of the rust tho

[Ryan]

Man, I know how you feel. My black car was like that, except bigger holes in the rockers.

For the wheel wells, I highly suggest you cut a new arch out of an old car with a similar well shape, and no rust. Its impossible to form it well with FG or anything.

For my body work, I industrial glued and riveted it. Its redneck, but its holding up beautifully.

[wytbishop]

I have a parts MX-3 at my disposal with good quarters. I haven't looked at the rockers, but they're easy enough to form out of sheet.

The door, the rear bumper and the sunroof panel (not pictured) are already replaced.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Damn cancer

What happened to your fog light?!

[wytbishop]

dropped it during the installation right on its face. I have another set already and in much nicer condition.

All in all I'm pretty happy with the results of the rust inspection. The rockers have a couple of spots but pretty easy to fix. That bottom corner of the driver's side wheel well is basically gone though. That's going to be fun to reshape.

I'm not super stressed about the finish. I just need it to be straight. My plan does not require a really good job with the top coat.

[AaronTietje]

My plan does not require a really good job with the top coat.

What's the plan?????

[DeadMaker]

How come and you have so much rust in your car?Especially the hole in the door!!
Do you leave near sea?

[wytbishop]

My plan does not require a really good job with the top coat.

What's the plan?????

it's sort of a secret. I don't want to say anything in case it looks like total crap lest I become the object of mockery and shame.

How come and you have so much rust in your car?Especially the hole in the door!!
Do you leave near sea?

I live in an area of deep winter. Lots of snow and slush and gravel...it's just bad for the car. The door was probably a drainage problem.

[Dragon1212]

My plan does not require a really good job with the top coat.

What's the plan?????

it's sort of a secret. I don't want to say anything in case it looks like total crap lest I become the object of mockery and shame.

How come and you have so much rust in your car?Especially the hole in the door!!
Do you leave near sea?

I live in an area of deep winter. Lots of snow and slush and gravel...it's just bad for the car. The door was probably a drainage problem.

I think the salt was more the culprit of the rest asK all the east coasters about that LOL

[WhiteFinish]

I just tallied up everything I've purchased to make the two piston brake mod happen. It goes like this...

323F BA V6 spindles...$110 (I got a wicked deal from a UK member so that was mostly shipping)
EBC MX-3 blank Rotors...$100 (incl. shipping. I found the PO)
SS Brake lines...$40 (this is half the cost of the set I bought last year)
94' Subaru Legacy Turbo Wagon calipers...$115 ($45ea + shipping from a wrecker in Calgary)
89' MX-6 caliper brackets...$15
Brake pads...$70
Wheel bearings and seals...$80
MX-3 hubs...$20
Misc...$30 (paint for calipers and brake fluid and stuff)

TOTAL: ~$580

You could probably knock $$$ off that if you bought cheaper rotors (or more if you don't replace your rotors at all) and didn't buy SS brake lines and reused your existing hubs. I'm buying a second used set of hubs because I want to leave my stock spindles intact. The difficult part is finding the spindles and shipping them over. It took my contact over there a long time but in the end he found me a great deal. Don't expect to find a pair that cheap unless you get quite lucky.

As far as installation goes, the 323 spindles use 5 bolt hubs so they need to come out. They can be hammered out fairly easily, but you will at least have to have the new bearings and MX-3 hubs pressed in and you may have to press the inner races of the old bearings out if the seller of your spindles can't do it for you prior to shipping. All that said you will either need access to a press or take them to someone to be done which would cost a few dollars but not too much.

Other than that the whole thing just bolts on, however there will likely be a need of some wheel aligning after doing this. By all accounts the results are impressive.

I just read this, why do you use the 626 and subaru parts ?
Why not just the millenia like this:
http://uk-mx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2793

[wytbishop]

Becuase you'll note that he had to do a lot of grinding to get the millenia brackets to bolt up to the steering knuckles.

I did not grind a single thing. The Subaru calipers bolt directly to the MX-6 brackets, which in turn bolt directly to the 323F knuckles.

Perfect fit, zero screwing around.