Can't lock my brakes

[Hoodzy]

I just put in brand new rotors all around and high end brake pads. My brakes seem to work great up until the point where I slam the brake pedal down and my wheels will not lock. Any ideas??

[umcamara]

Yeah... ABS

[mikeinaus]

did you bed the pads? new brakes will suck until they have moved enough material from the pads to the rotors...

[PATDIESEL]

How old is your brake fluid?
Bedding the pads used to be important, but not as much with the newer materials. However, I still do it.
High-end pads could be of a material that is low dust, meaning they are also less friction... BMW wheels are always dirty for a reason the pads they use are more aggressive and it shows in their braking numbers. So what pad are you running?

[Hoodzy]

Whats bedding?? I hope you were kidding with the ABS comment.

I am running Roto tech slotted and cross drilled fronts. Brembo cross drilled and slotted rears.
I can't remember the pads. I bought them Part Source they were the more expensive of the two they sold. There stupid part look up is down.

Fluid is probably original.

[Mooneggs]

Bedding is the process of basically "breaking in" your new rotors and pads... I'm pretty sure I have the process I used on my powerslot rotors with HPS Plus/EBC Greenstuff at home. I took the process very seriously since the plan is to auto-x that car.

I'll post up with the info later...

[wytbishop]

The rule of thumb I've always followed when bedding in new pads is 30/30. 30 stops from 30 mph not quite to a full stop with gradually increasing braking force.

You have to avoid heating the rotors up quickly and once hot, don't stop and hold the brakes on as the new pad will actually leave an imprint of pad material on the rotor.

[Hoodzy]

Would changing out the fluid be a good idea? Seeing as it's probably original.
I suppose I'll try the bedding see if it does any good.

[Mooneggs]

The process I used was similar to Wytbishop's:

"The initial stops should be made from 35mph. Then using light to moderate pedal effort reduce speed by approximately 5mph. Repeat 10 times within 1/3 of a mile intervals, then while still driving allow brake components to cool to normal operating temperatures. You should avoid any high speed stops for the first 300 miles. "

[EggyRollz]

Also consider drilled or slotted rotors have less surface area thus less area to friction at. Just my opinion.

I've noticed on every vehicle i've ever put them on that the braking is different in many ways and it was almost impossible to lock them up. My 3KGT has D/S rotors and for the life of me I cannot get them to lock up either.

However my tap braking and light to medium braking response is through the roof.

This is assuming you are using performance rotors with your performance pads =P

[wytbishop]

For the record my braking performance on the MX-3 has never been outstanding. My car stops well, but not awesome. I am really working hard to get a braking upgrade sorted out that will be workable for the masses.

[mazdags94]

Maybe you should try bleeding your brakes....

It's easy enough to try. Plus, it may be beneficial to change out your fluid anyways (as you mentioned earlier).

[umcamara]

Just out of curiousity, do any of you ABS guys know if you have to activate the ABS pump(s) when bleeding Mx-3 brakes? I know on a lot of ABS vehicles you have to do this, and people can't figure out why they can't get all the air out...

[wytbishop]

The manual doesn't say anything about the ABS pump in the bleeding section. I have wondered that myself and checked.

[Mooneggs]

hmmm I'm guessing it would only be listed in the Euro spec manual? or do you have one of those wyt?