knife edge curve neck manifold klze cheap preformance advice

[SpatialTerror]

thats what my brother told me when he took it to the shop he works at.
and i searched for the faq bout urathane. i couldnt find it.
even did a manual search too.
could i get a link?

[Sleeper6]

get this one

http://www.awrracing.com/store/product_ ... cts_id=320" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

get the one for mx6 and just make the holes in cross member bigger, the one made for the mx3 is to small.

86 dllrs, its really worth it. I think its impossible to break em, get the 95 grade. I got the rear one and it rocks.

I thought about filling mine, but if your unsure of it you can follow this route. Much easier and it will only cost you about $40 more than buying the urethane and save you some down time. Btw all you have to do is buy flexible polyurethane from any online hardware store, odds are you wont find it locally ( I couldnt atleast) pull your mounts, tape one side off and fill them with the mix. Its not that hard, just search how to fill motor mount

[SpatialTerror]

sweet. ill go down to the hardware store monday and see if they have some. if not ill order some.
ill put up pics when done.
just curious how does it help?
does it cut down the movement of the motor?
and what else can i do for cheap to make my car get a better 1/4mile time.
and another thing i would like to make happen is get it to the 100mph club.
im a little ways off at 92-96mph every pass

[Sleeper6]

It takes the rotational force of the engine and forces it to apply the torque to the axles instead of making your engine rock in the engine bay. Long story short it will help you take off the line faster, and if you change all your mounts you get a free shiatsu massage every time you make a pass!

[Nd4SpdSe]

thats what my brother told me when he took it to the shop he works at.

If you can't break a 100mph trap, you're not even beyond 200bhp

[SpatialTerror]

thats what my brother told me when he took it to the shop he works at.

If you can't break a 100mph trap, you're not even beyond 200bhp

are you tellin me that from power to weight ratios?
or something.
because they do have a engine dyno.
but i highly doubt they actually pulled my motor to get the actual results.

[Nd4SpdSe]

No, I'msaying from what I can see fro your listed mods and your drag times that 235bhp is not possible, not without doing any work to the internals of the engine.

A ZE makes 198bhp, using bolt-on mods just frees hp lost from the engine to the wheels. You'll get more whp, but no gain in bhp since bhp is measured directly at the crank. I'm going to say that you're roughly around the 175whp mark

[SpatialTerror]

oic so mabye i was lied to.
and thanks for the imput.
175whp is nice
but i wanna get it around 200whp.
and one thing that isnt listed about when i race i take out almost 250lbs worth of weight.
isnt that about a tenth of the weight of the car?

[Nd4SpdSe]

I believe the general rule is 1/10th for every 100lbs

[SpatialTerror]

oh wow so i did even more then i though

[Sleeper6]

1st Im going to say that while crank hp is nice, but all that really matters is whats getting out to your wheels (more the merrier tho).
But second how much fuel is in your tank when you race? B/c a full tank will weigh considerably more than if you run it with only an 1/8th tank or so, just food for thought

[_-Night-Shade-_]

1st Im going to say that while crank hp is nice, but all that really matters is whats getting out to your wheels (more the merrier tho).
But second how much fuel is in your tank when you race? B/c a full tank will weigh considerably more than if you run it with only an 1/8th tank or so, just food for thought

I don't think the 20-30 lbs that it'll free up will make a huge difference.

[Sleeper6]

I don't think the 20-30 lbs that it'll free up will make a huge difference.

When your desperate, your desperate what can I say lol

[wytbishop]

I believe the general rule is 1/10th for every 100lbs

oh wow so i did even more then i though

Just to be clear...he means that removing 100lbs will lower your ET by about 1/10th of a second. Just not sure if that was clear to you.

Honestly I don't think it's even possible to put 200whp on the ground without some expensive engine mods. The engine is rated in the 190-198hp range (depending who you ask) and with drivetrain losses estimated conservatively at 10% you're lucky if a stock ZE puts 175hp on the ground. but realistically friction losses are more like 15-20% so you are probably putting 160-165whp down. There is nothing you can do to make an additional 35hp that doesn't require major engine work or forced induction or both.

your best path to reduce your ET and inprove your trap speed is to concentrate on learning to drive it better, which we should all do anyway, and spending your money on good lightweight wheels and tires sized to put your shift points at ideal rpm.

[SpatialTerror]

yea im running it with a 1/8th a tank.
but my main goal is to run a 14.1 without really spending over $150
the best possible time i could pull outa my car right now would be a 14.5 or a 14.6 thats assuming i get a .001 reaction with very little wheel slip and a good overall run down the track.
so actually im not that far away from that goal.
but my question is will $150 worth of stuff i dont have put me at a 14.1
i gotta beat that camero.
im proving all the rednecks who are stuck on gas guzzeling v8's that run 16's that real hp comes from the guy with the best power to weight ratio. so far its working.
i just think its funny that guys will brag that they got 300 to 350whp. with a 10000lbs car. haha
and im driving a 175whp car that weights 100lbs.
and another thing ive been thinkin bout doin cuz its only $75 bucks and not off ebay. is this electic supercharger that some guys down at the local shop put on there trucks. its only boosting like 3 to 4 psi.
but in my mind thats more than enough to run a 14.1