knock sensor

[ninja_man]

are the knock sensors the same on the k8 and the klde and how do you test them

[hgallegos915]

I got a klde one and works fine. it was cheaper too. I heard someone here say it was different voltage but hey.. it got rid of my knock sensor code...

[Ryan]

DE and K8 ones are the same, its just another hall effect sensor. You test them by installing them and seeing if the code goes away.

[ninja_man]

there seems like there has to be an easyer way of testing it. i mean alll that work putting it in and it not work

[davmac]

Knock sensor is not a hall effect sensor - though before I start an argument it doesn't really matter because there is no good way to test it. As often as it is a bad sensor it can be a bad wire because it gets pretty hot in the valley between the cylinder heads. Trouble is bad wire or bad sensor both require you remove the intake and at least the larger of 2 coolant bypass pipes. Also the wire / connector is integrated with the sensor. These sensors rarely need to be replaced so you could roll the dice and install a salvage yard part (though treat it gently because you can ruin them easily). About the best price around at mazda-parts dot com for $125 plus shipping.

[fowljesse]

You can also get a stand-alone knock detector for $65, but you'd still have the CEL.

[ninja_man]

ok. well dosnt that knocksensor code make the car run in loop mode so it runs ritch

[Ryan]

Wow, whoops. I was totally thinking crank position sensor. Go ahead and pick a fight on the hall effect thing, I'm a moron.

[Daninski]

First off I totally agree with you Ryan. Nija dude I think you meant to say limp mode as in open loop. Closed loop is when your ECU is able to use all the sensors to determine fuel and timing correction.

[fowljesse]

Yeah. I forgot about that.
Aftermarket knock sensor = fail without engine management system.
I was just excited because I'm getting one soon.

[ninja_man]

ya. in limp mode. wont a knock sensor put it in limp mode

[Daninski]

Umm this is only a guess and my guess is no. Closed loop uses the O2 sensors and I'm not sure on our cars if the coolant temp sensor is used as well. Never heard of a knock sensor being involved

[ninja_man]

so could it be running rich becuz i am only using one temp sensor. i have a klde in it and didnt feel like changing the neck for both sensors

[davmac]

Are you lacking a temp sensor signal to the ECU? That could be a problem that could cause the engine to run rich. IIRC one sensor is to the dash temp indicator and the other to the ECU. Not sure if you can go without dash temp indicator in favor of a good signal to the ECU. Or you might be able to fool the ECU with a resistor that has a value to indicate the car is at operating temp.

Knock sensor trouble code just means the knock sensor is sending no signal. Kinda like abs or air bag light it is only warning about something that will not happen. Engine performance should not be effected - but if preignition (engine knock) occurs there will be no timing adjustments made. And while the check engine light is on for the knock sensor you will not know if you are having other sensor issues - unless you check.

[ninja_man]

so how can i get that other water temp sensor to work or fake it cuz i dont want to tear the motor apart to put the other neck on