Just Bought My 1st MX-3

[beefmobile]

well i got the car running smooth as a whistle. i clamped up the big vacuum on good and tight, and sealed up the unplugged one; ran some throttle body cleaner thru it, and adjusted the idle control thingy on it.

[beefmobile]

Starting from the top, firing order should be 1342, I think no.1 is marked on the distributor. If you look at your distributor, there is 2 mounting bolts on adjustable brackets, it should be sitting roughly midway in the brackets. Back off the bolts slightly and turn the distributor a bit and see if the idle gets any better or worse. To find out if it is a lifter or isolate the knock in general, take a small piece of hose, hold it to your ear and go along the valve cover and injectors.

ya i did that with a screwdriver. the idle evened out after tweaking everything. again thx for all the help.

next is clutch, then paint!!


also, got another problem......anybody have issues w/ their seat belt? the wire that moves the buckle thingy is hanging out and i cant seem to keep it tucked in. it seems as if there is supposed to be some type of pulley or wheel holding it up in the corner. anybody?

[umcamara]

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if everyone had that mindset, the forums would die.

and i wasnt literally calling you my son, man, it is a slang saying........at least where im from

Man, how many pieces of info have I given you in this thread? And you hardly acknowledge the advice before coming back with questions that prove you haven't really considered the advice. I don't HAVE to waste my time trying to help you.

And I know what "son" means, it's just pretty lame, you're talkin on your computer you're not out in the streets.

[umcamara]

Regardless man, I'm not trying to be a prick. It's good to have you here. It just gets a bit frustrating when it seems like someone just expects all the answers.

No hard feelings though. Glad your b6 is running better now.

Also, when you adjust the distributor or the idle adjustment screw, you need to jump the TEN and Ground pins in the diagnostic connector, then start the engine, then make adjustments, then remove the jumper, then shut down the engine.

[beefmobile]

couple of quick things.

first, is the shifter supposed to have an ENORMOUS amount of play? sometimes i cant tell if its in gear or in neutral.

also, since i'm still waiting on the clutch, i've been playing around a little bit with the tranny. if i put it in gear (1st) it almost never grabs. it just spins and spins and you can barely hear it. but when it does grab, it lets loose again after the car barely pulls forward. then if i put it 2nd, 3rd, and so on, the spinning (almost a grinding sound) gets louder respectively when i let off the clutch. sometimes, it will grab in reverse, but as soon as i move like 2 feet, it lets out and starts spinning again.

does this sound like a clutch issue or the tranny altogether?

i've got most of the bolts on the bell housing off, i thought i would get a head start for when the clutch gets here.

(dont wanna stress you out uncamara, so let me know if i start wasting your time )

btw, is this a canadian website? just wondering...

[umcamara]

No, the shifter shouldn't have a lot of play. You likely need to change the shift linkage bushings.
Corksport sells two bushing kits. One is a replacement for the non-serviceable 3rd shift link, and the other is for the replaceable front and rear bushings.

They're reasonably priced, about $30 per kit.

Click Here

And Here

And no need to roll your eyes. I tried to smooth things over. If you don't want my help, I won't answer your posts anymore.

[beefmobile]

No, the shifter shouldn't have a lot of play. You likely need to change the shift linkage bushings.
Corksport sells two bushing kits. One is a replacement for the non-serviceable 3rd shift link, and the other is for the replaceable front and rear bushings.

They're reasonably priced, about $30 per kit.

Click Here

And Here

And no need to roll your eyes. I tried to smooth things over. If you don't want my help, I won't answer your posts anymore.

thank you for the info, seriously. but i had to get you back

[Ryan]

What exactly makes a website Canadian as apposed ot American or Japanese? Its run by an American... If thats what you're asking.

I would seriously consider dropping that garbage b6 out of there. Its no good. Its an economy motor. Plop in a BP with some beefy rods and low comp pistons, run 20 psi and kick your stang's butt all the way down the strip in a car with half the money in it.


People and their bolt-ons and additives...

[beefmobile]

What exactly makes a website Canadian as apposed ot American or Japanese? Its run by an American... If thats what you're asking.

I would seriously consider dropping that garbage b6 out of there. Its no good. Its an economy motor. Plop in a BP with some beefy rods and low comp pistons, run 20 psi and kick your stang's butt all the way down the strip in a car with half the money in it.


People and their bolt-ons and additives...

lmao

haha i'm in the low 12's on a few bolt ons w/ the stang....not everybody has to drop a new motor in their car to go fast

but anyway, this mx3 is not my race car. i bought it for a couple hundred bucks to revive it and give it a new life, as a normal daily driven street car. ( i really hate to say the word beater, seriously)

i searched and found a great write up on the clutch swap.....IT'S REALLY INVOLVED lol i'm used to changing RWD cars haha.

[Redline322]

It's really not as bad as it seems, first, remove your battery and battery tray. You can either turn the wheels to extreme lock or unbolt the ball joints and pull the axles. Disconnect your shifter linkage and slave cylinder(sits on the front of the trans). Support your engine with a jack and a block of wood in between the jack and the oil pan so it doesnt go through or just hook up a chain and a thick wooden plank along the top of the strut towers and put another jack under the crossmember and unbolt the drivers side trans mount that was under the battery and unbolt the crossmember bolts. Unbolt the trans from the block and lower it all down(might need a wiggle to pull them apart). It should only take a few hrs to do. Install is just the opposite of removal.

[beefmobile]

It's really not as bad as it seems, first, remove your battery and battery tray. You can either turn the wheels to extreme lock or unbolt the ball joints and pull the axles. Disconnect your shifter linkage and slave cylinder(sits on the front of the trans). Support your engine with a jack and a block of wood in between the jack and the oil pan so it doesnt go through or just hook up a chain and a thick wooden plank along the top of the strut towers and put another jack under the crossmember and unbolt the drivers side trans mount that was under the battery and unbolt the crossmember bolts. Unbolt the trans from the block and lower it all down(might need a wiggle to pull them apart). It should only take a few hrs to do. Install is just the opposite of removal.

sweet. but from my description above, does it sound like a tranny probly?

i may PM you while in the process....i just hope the clutch gets here before the weekend. I've got a good buddy that is probly as knowledgeable as me and we'll knock it out over a 12 pack probly this saturday.

[Redline322]

If the car is moving a bit, but you are hearing the slipping sounds from the clutch, it should be just the clutch is way gone. Dont forget to scuff the surface of the flywheel with some sand paper to get any marks off of it, but dont make it too smooth, the clutch still needs to be able to grab it. Your pilot bearing and everything is probably messed up too but they should come with the clutch kit along with an alignment tool.

[beefmobile]

If the car is moving a bit, but you are hearing the slipping sounds from the clutch, it should be just the clutch is way gone. Dont forget to scuff the surface of the flywheel with some sand paper to get any marks off of it, but dont make it too smooth, the clutch still needs to be able to grab it.

i figured, it just seems kinda weird if you get in the car and start messing w/ it.

Approx what grit sandpaper?

Your pilot bearing and everything is probably messed up too but they should come with the clutch kit along with an alignment tool.

i agree and i'm almost certain all of that is in the kit.


thx for the help

[Redline322]

I'd go with something around 100-120 and then maybe finish with around 200-250. You can use some brake cleaner on any scorch marks but make sure it is clean and dry before putting it back on.

[mazda915]

cool man im a lil late but welcome to the mx 3 family!! . now get a jdm motor and u will love it . so keep ur mx good bro good luck on it . i had the same prob wit the tranny ending up getting a new one . a jdm tranny is good so get one if those .