Need help with emissions PLEASE!

[Nd4SpdSe]

The problem is that I'm worried that you could be assuming that stuff is ok when indeed it isn't. Troubleshooting does that way when you have to spend money to replace parts in the matter of trial-and-error. How many times have I seen people assume something is ok, dance around other possibilties, than eventually come back and find out that was the initial problem, with money spent in a wild goose chase because they didn't want to acknowledge what could be the problem.

Ya, Whisper could be right. New cars have flow sensors in the EGR system, but our cars are older than that and don't have that system. The only thing it can check is if it's opening and closing.

[muttpower]

Well, if it's an aftermarker Cat, chances are it's a high flow such as magnaflow. But High HC and NOX point to cat inop. You can try jesse's method, as this has worked with a number of mx3's including my own. And I have a cat delete on mine(resonator).

[Nd4SpdSe]

Well, if it's an aftermarker Cat, chances are it's a high flow such as magnaflow. But High HC and NOX point to cat inop. You can try jesse's method, as this has worked with a number of mx3's including my own. And I have a cat delete on mine(resonator).

Indeed. I had a high-flow on the Mx-3, but that may be sufficiant for a ZE and not a K8. It's too much flow for the 1.8 to get it up to temp.

Ya, here is the trick of 1-gal can of Coleman camp fuel per 1/3-1/2 tank.

[_-Night-Shade-_]

I appreciate all the input, thanks guys! Putting on a different cat is kind of my last resort, I've yet to check the EGR so I will do that and also I think I should try to see if the ignition coil/disty is up to spec? Later I will post the e-test readings that I got so far if that helps...

[progt91]

I have seen brand new aftermarket cats fail etest and then a better quality one put on with no other work to the car and it would pass the test with flying colours

[_-Night-Shade-_]

I spotted the EGR valve but have no idea how to get at it. It seems out of reach whether you're above the engine or underneath it, can anyone who's done this before give me some tips as how to get it off and clean it?

[Mad Cow]

I spotted the EGR valve but have no idea how to get at it. It seems out of reach whether you're above the engine or underneath it, can anyone who's done this before give me some tips as how to get it off and clean it?

Check out the service manual? It shouldn't be too hard if you take the IM off.

[_-Night-Shade-_]

Check out the service manual? It shouldn't be too hard if you take the IM off.

Holy fudge if that's the only way to do it then I hope that acetone does the trick.

[Mad Cow]

Check out the service manual? It shouldn't be too hard if you take the IM off.

Holy fudge if that's the only way to do it then I hope that acetone does the trick.

Why? It really isn't hard to take off the IM, my first time took 20 mins at most, and that was in a canvas garage in -20 degree weather. If anything I can come by to help.

[_-Night-Shade-_]

Nah it's just that it's messy and would require unplugging a lot of other s---. I actually took off the TB today and that was a pain, sort of, so I don't even wanna think about the IM.

[Flyer]

Take the IM off you wuss

[Mad Cow]

Nah it's just that it's messy and would require unplugging a lot of other s---. I actually took off the TB today and that was a pain, sort of, so I don't even wanna think about the IM.

Unplugging stuff is the hardest part. But it's still not bad. It just takes time because there are a bunch of bolts that you can't really see but keep you from taking it off.

Plus you have a K8, the IM on those is a good deal smaller than mine, so it should be easier to get to those random bolts. And the VRIS is all on the IM, so you don't need to touch those vacuum hoses.

[Whisper]

It's not that hard, but it will take more than 20 minutes. About an hour, if you disconnect and label everything. Also if you're taking TB off separately, might be easier to drain the coolant a bit, so it doesn't spill when you coolant lines dangle. Don't forget to release the fuel pressure before unhooking the fuel rails.

EGR is a pain in the a-- to get to, but if you do it once, you probably will never have to do it again.

[muttpower]

Probably also a good idea to run a coolant bypass fitting between the TB coolant lines...rather than letting hot @$$ fluid heat up your TB intake charge.
And the IM isn't that hard at all. Once you do it once, you'll see just how easy it is. Most everything only hooks into one spot on the IM too, so you won't have to worry too much about reconnecting things in the wrong place. If you have to stretch the plug/hose to get it to fit to the IM, than chances are it doesn't belong there. Just try it...come on...my wife can do it, so can you.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Probably also a good idea to run a coolant bypass fitting between the TB coolant lines...rather than letting hot @$$ fluid heat up your TB intake charge.
And the IM isn't that hard at all. Once you do it once, you'll see just how easy it is. Most everything only hooks into one spot on the IM too, so you won't have to worry too much about reconnecting things in the wrong place. If you have to stretch the plug/hose to get it to fit to the IM, than chances are it doesn't belong there. Just try it...come on...my wife can do it, so can you.

No. With it bypassed, the IAC can't work to control the idle. He's more likely fail the idle test.