Oregon Dyno Day results!

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hgallegos915
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by hgallegos915 »

well goos luck on the dyno, if it pulls harder im sure it will make more power, and please do us JUSTICE

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Mooneggs
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Mooneggs »

RX8SE3P wrote:Mooneggs, you ran a 14.4 and now you're saying the car feels way faster now??

I would love to see how it goes now!

Btw interesting about the fuel pump. I'm thinking of getting one. Did you use one for an MX6 or one specifically for MX3 because I have seen them on Ebay (walbro) for MX6s.
I ran a 14.5 in my daily driver... I haven't run the race car at the track yet... I finally got the DD running again and I think it was fuel pump related too!
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OutlaW
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by OutlaW »

can i ask u guys something ?
Here in Portugal, our dyno tests allways have 2 numbers:

the whp, and the crank bhp
when i see american dyno tests, everyone allways talks about the whp. And the numbers i see are allways similar to our bhp . U guys have a crappy gasoline, that in all cars takes a few bhp.
But even when i see the Dyno papers, there is allways just one number. The tests are made at the wheels, but are u guys sure they are giving real whp ? lol
Our tests are also made by the wheels, but the results are allways:
a crank result, a whp result , a torque and the rpm's everything happened.
This is allways a mistery to me :roll:
K8 :: 136.8 bhp---160 nm---108.0 whp---118lbs/torque
ET: 15.567 @ 136 kmh (84 mph)
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wytbishop
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by wytbishop »

IF the test is done at the wheels, it is only possible to estimate the crank hp. There is no way for the dyno to measure the frictional losses occurring in the drivetrain. In order to measure crank hp an engine dyno must be used.
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Whisper
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Whisper »

Even WHP will be different between different dynos. Some dynos are a little more accurate - for those who want real numbers, while others are a little more flattering - for those who want bragging rights. :wink:

Crank HP (BHP) isn't really all that interesting to most, since it's not what you're putting down to the ground. Different cars with the same BHP can have different WHP.
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Mooneggs »

So here's the pics and a video that I took. I've got to call and set up an appointment for another dyno run...

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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Mooneggs »

official dyno results are in! I compared the probinator to the kl36 and there was a significant difference. I ran them both with a wideband back to back and these were the results.

Probinator ECU: 141.4whp @ 4800 rpm, 162.5tq @ 3000 rpm
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KL36 ECU: 136.1whp @ 4800 rpm, 148.8tq @ 4800 rpm
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The Probinator ran almost a perfect a/f ratio at peak power and then maybe just a tad lean as it trailed off but I can bump up the fuel psi from 40 to 45 to accomodate that.
The KL36 ran stupid lean and alot of black smoke came out and you could hear detonation :?

Coming soon will be the installation of the pacesetter headers to see what kind of difference they make! now that I have something to compare them to!
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stereoking15
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by stereoking15 »

yeah i need to stop working on all of your guy's cars and start to fix mine and tune mine, you bastards!!!! also, i read that a mustang dyno (which is what our cars were tested on) produces like 10-15% lower numbers, but i still made as much torque as you guys, i am running a k8 ecu, and mooneggs and fowl are running modded ecu's so that could be a major fail point on my car!! time to put in some new oxygen sensors, wideband, and a standalone!!
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fowljesse
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by fowljesse »

Congrats, Mooneggs! That's much better!
162lbs. torque?! I'm hoping for that when I'm done tuning :shock:
You must have a high end restriction, or maybe turbulence along the way..
Yeah, Stereoking15, You could tune some power out of it.
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_-Night-Shade-_
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by _-Night-Shade-_ »

Mooneggs it sounds really good, what kind of muffler is that?
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Mooneggs
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Mooneggs »

it's a Janspeed muffler... I can't find much info about it... I've been told it's pure titanium but it doesn't seem light enough unless the inner parts are steel or something...

either way I'm getting rid of it and putting in the same muffler i have on my DD ze... 4.5" Megan GT muffler... a little bit deeper tone and no raspiness whatsoever :welder:
RX8SE3P
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by RX8SE3P »

Mooneggs, those results are still weird mate. You are making top power very early, then it is diving off. Torque looks ok but the power should be around 6500 you'd think. Maybe 5500RPM but not 4800. I think you still might have a restriction somewhere?

Btw nice difference there with the probinator and stock ECU.

So your fuel pump was the main issue there? Is that below the back seat? I was thinking of changing mine eventually, is it hard to do?
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Whisper
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Whisper »

Yeah, those curves really do look kind of odd.
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by Mooneggs »

yeah I'm still not sure what is up with my curves. The dyno guy wasn't surprised and said that seemed normal for a stock motor. :shrug: he said he wouldn't try and push the car past 6 and try to shift around 5600-5800. so what do you think my restriction is... I see I SHOULD be making peak power at about 5800-6000 :crying: Looking back both ECU's are peaking at 4800 so it must be something with the motor... what could it be? fuel psi too low?? thermospacers? the bored out TB?

fuel pump is really quite easy (always intimidated me before I actually did mine)... I'm sure the actual process is in the manual (which I would recommend you check first) but basically it's like this:

Remove fuel relay under hood. Try to start car, then let it die. Try to start car again...
Remove negative battery cable.
Take out rear seat.
Unplug the wires going to the fuel pump.
Remove 4 screws and pull the plate off.
Remove the shorter fuel line first - a little fuel will come out so be ready with a towel or something
then remove the longer fuel line.
Remove the screws around the top ring (6 I think?) make sure you keep the rubber gasket on the assembly for easy reinstallation.
pull out the assembly
This is a good time to inspect the assembly and the tank...
It's pretty straightforward after that... disassemble the holder for the sock/fuel pump and undo the clamps for the rubber hose and pull the electronic plug out.
I had to replace my hose because it was so tight on the fuel pump it had to be cut. It is 5/16" HP fuel hose (at least 180psi) but its only like 2 inches so most autoparts stores will give you a scrap for free.
put on new fuel pump and reassemble!
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marcdh
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Re: Oregon Dyno Day results!

Post by marcdh »

Bored out TB should raise it. Air filter clean? Would take some dirt mind you. Maybe it's because at that point the VAF is no longer used to calculate required fuel and the ECU uses it's crap guess maps?
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