After an attempt on Kp2t's seat transfer, and well as getting a second set of switches at the wreckers, I was able to take the time to take them apart, clean them (something much of been spilt, cause it needed it) and check out how their wired up. Here's the diagram I made up with how I had planned to rewire them to work in my non-SE Mx-3, since i'll have to make my own wiring. As well, the lights in the switches normally are no longer functional, so instead of playing around with and trying to find actual replacement bulbs, i figured might as well put in some LED's, cause LED's are cool, and I want specific colors.
![Image](http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6702/diagramfz3.jpg)
Inside the switch, top (switch) view.
![Image](http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/5230/99016770au1.jpg)
Inside the switch, bottom (wire) view
![Image](http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/5181/60516121es5.jpg)
Mod was much more easy than expected,and cheap too, get the parts from radio shack.
- 2x Blue LED (for the logo) 5v/30mA. PN:276-311
- 2x Red LED (for switch-on) 1.7v/20mA. PN:276-307
- 4x Snap-In LED Holders. PN:276-079 (5 Pack)
- 2x 270-Ohm 1/2w Resistors (For Blue LED on 12v). PN:271-1112 (5 Pack)
- 2x 560-Ohm 1/2w Resistors (For Red LED on 12v). PN:271-1116 (5 Pack)
- 1/4 Inch Drill Bit
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Shrink Wrap
First I bored out the old light bulb holes with the 1/4 bit and inserted the LED holder into them (left is with holder, right hole just bored out)
![Image](http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/4246/15527230lt4.jpg)
I wired up the Red (switch) LED. Soldering the LED leads directly to the existing soldering points.
![Image](http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/9372/59261771jq5.jpg)
And both with the excess leads cut off.
![Image](http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/253/36838375fu6.jpg)
Polarity Markings for the LED's
![Image](http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/3276/5signso7.jpg)
The resistors for the LED's we're spliced into their respective grounds (in series) for each LED. Had to do it this way since there was no extra room to the resistors inside the switch. The heated seat will be grounded to the chassis, so these resistors will not affect the voltage for the heating pads.
![Image](http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/8498/28949927er6.jpg)
Left was the cover for the bottom cover for the switch. Need to be slightly modified to not hit the connections for the LED.
![Image](http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/527/12501189hu1.jpg)
Just cut away at some of the plastic surrounding the holes for the lights
![Image](http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/4936/60872560hq5.jpg)
And the final switch:
![Image](http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/2079/84987835xs8.jpg)
Switch all lights off:
![Image](http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/4171/10pt8.jpg)
Switch blue LED logo on. Will be wired up to turn on with my parking lights.
![Image](http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4475/11cv8.jpg)
Switch logo on, as well as the red led that lights up when the switch/heated seats are turned on.
![Image](http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8580/12mq8.jpg)