B6 Turbo Manifold

[cjthor]

I would but I'm saving the $$ for the Miata. The engine alone for the swap would have cost more then I have into this setup but I agree. 250-300hp easy on a BP but I already have one of those to build. =)

250-300WHP easy on a b6. Thats where im sitting right about now...actually 302whp.

[lazzer408]

There are different versions of the B6. The B6T is fine. The B6 used in the MX-3 is a pos. The BP is great in any version. The only changes may be rods and cr. It's like compairing a smallblock 305 to 350. You will never win an argument that a 305 is better.

[cjthor]

Im actually using the b6t block and rods, the mx3 head and intake, and custom cams in mine. The MX3 b6 block is very similar to the b6t block, other than the oil squirters I dont know of a difference.

[lazzer408]

How about the skirt on the oil pan and also the bellhousing side of the engine is cast differently. It's a weaker block with a weaker crank. The one in the MX-3 (second gen) is a B6D. The first gen MX-3 is a B6ME (B62E). B6D and B6ME both lack the squirters as far as I know. B6ZE has them. The B6 used in the 89-93 Miata is the B6T version of the B6 block "B6ZE" but with the weaker rods. It DOES have squirters. I have a B6ZE sitting 10' from me. That's the n/a version of the B6T. The B6ZE is as great an engine as the BP and BPT, don't get me wrong, but both the B6s used in the MX-3s are crap. The B6ZE crank is also different. It's lighter and stronger. So if you want to stay with the 1.6 you'll want the B6ZE (Miata) or the B6T. Those 2 blocks and cranks are the same just different rods. ZE rods can still handle 250+ anyways. 300+ and go with B6T rods.

EDIT-You have the B6T so none of this really matters. You got the good one. =)

[nos92mx3]

Well you also have to remember that the b6t came with both large and smaller rods, along with larger and smaller crank snouts.
unfortunatley ive got the worst of both worlds, the smaller rods and the 22mm crank snout.
but i still dont see a problem trying to make 400 fwhp, i abused this motor day in and out for an entire summer, the only thing it required was an oil change and some plugs.

[lazzer408]

The problem trying to make 400fwhp, besides getting it to the ground, is the rods, pistons, poor head flow (for 400hp), sintered oil pump gears, the shortnose crank issue with early B6s, and a weak distributer-bassed ignition system. Mazda's are good motors no doubt but lets be realistic. A 400hp B6 or BP isn't exactly a Mazda engine anymore is it? =) You can get ~300hp reliably out of a "stock" B6T or BPT or even ~250 out of a B6/BP with a good tune.

Tonight I stuck the baby Capri IC on my MX3. Did I have a build thread going for that thing? I'll have to go look now and post pics.

[JWMotorsports]

I pushed 24-26psi with my GT3076R on pump gas to the lil B6T version and it took it for 10,000+ miles before snapping the cyl. 1 rod just below the piston (cyclic fatigue). It had the small miata rods, the small nose crank, and the stock cast B6T pistons running stock clearances...well I did hone the piss out of the cylinders and up the oil pressure significantly.

I'm currently still using the small nose crank with my race motor as that is the only crank Mazdaspeed seems to have offered a high volume oil pump for. I've had no problems from either small nose crank...it is called locktite red

Lazzer...that is some good info on the different blocks...the weaker casting was something that I wasn't aware of....I have seen a B6 sohc pushed to 400+whp, however the internal mods are unknown.

A 305 cast block can be made better than a 350 cast block...use darton sleeves, 400 forged pistons, 400 forged rods, 400 forged crank. now that is a true sleeper This in a 2nd gen RX-7 with 500HP progressive shot and nobod would see that coming! Although they'd wanna know why it has a 4-link, a power glide, & a custom 9" rear with monster axles in tubs It would be hilarious to see the competition look at the block and blow it off as just a lil 305...

[lazzer408]

My small block comparison was a poor analogy. Anyways. There's no replacement for displacement except for more boost!

How did you have small Miata rods if you had a B6T? What happened to the B6T rods?

Keep that short nose tight!

I haven't seen a high volume oil pump yet. Only thing I've seen is the run-o-the-mill stock pump with a shim on the bypass spring. I'd like to know if the mazdaspeed pump still uses the sintered gears or if they use something else. Unless the gerotor profile or physical size of the rotor was changed it's not high volume. Just high pressure via. shim. I can do that with a washer for $.02 (and do).

Now why in the world would you even think of polluting an RX engine bay with a v8 boinger? You know what's funny though speaking of engine swaps. I have a story. Before I bought the Miata I had my heart set on a Chevy Monza out of NewYork. 43k clean. That deal fell thru so I bought an '85 TA from my old boss. 65k garage kept. Nice ride. Well it was too boring for me so the next in line was a Miata. I actually sold the TA to buy the Miata. I had a 400hp built 4.3 sitting on a stand at the shop all ready to go into the Monza because I already owned 3 v8 Monzas and decided to be different. Since the Monza didn't work out I planed on sticking that v6 into the Miata but I had so much fun flinging that car around the interstate on the way home that I decided against it. I ended up boosting it and now I'm a T5 and a 8.8" diff away from putting 450+hp to the ground with the BP. Money constraints have that project on the back burner for now but the car already does ~275hp on the 15psi I run now on my second DIY setup.

I have 160k on the BP and she's knocking. Piston slap I guess because there is NO WAY I could have a rod knock for 10k miles. lol It's the #3 cylinder banging away which, coincidentally, is the same cylinder that had the sparkplug with a fried away ground electrode and no porcelain left around the center electrode when I was running my very first DIY setup. Oops! I probably melted the side of the piston. It's since got larger injectors, an evo intercooler, and an AEM, so I don't have detonation issues anymore. The new engine is 90% complete less that oil pump I mentioned. I guess I'll just dump $400 on the billet gears.

JW hit me up on yahoo. Lazzer408.
-peace-

[nos92mx3]

The 91-94 capri blocks used the superceeded miata rod in the b6t, the only b6t to get the beefy rods were in the 88-89 323

[lazzer408]

The Mazda replacement rod for Miata is a MX3 rod now. So all in all there are 3 rods for these engines right? In order of strength. 323 GTX, Miata, MX3.

So what you are saying is you have a "B6T" from a turbo Capri?

[nos92mx3]

The Mazda replacement rod for Miata is a MX3 rod now. So all in all there are 3 rods for these engines right? In order of strength. 323 GTX, Miata, MX3.

So what you are saying is you have a "B6T" from a turbo Capri?

Correct
Technically is a b6t/de
b6t block
b6de head

[lazzer408]

Gotcha. That's the engine I grabbed this setup off of. I should go back to the junkyard one of these days and grab the block.

[nos92mx3]

I wouldnt the only big difference is the compression with the pistons.
B6t = 7.8-1
b6de= i believe is 9-1 or 9.5 to 1

Boost your motor you have now which is a de correct?
in order for the exhaust manifold to work you need to remove a stud or 2 from the head and you need to port the exhaust manifold.
Watch out for cracks by the o2 sensor.

[lazzer408]

I have a B6D and the Capri mani bolted right up. 9.5:1 is to high for boost and explains the massive detonation at only 6psi. Does the Capri B6x have oil squirters?

[osargeant]

Lazzie, I cant agree that 9.5:1 is too high for boost, it is perfect for boost, I am running 12psi right now on that same compression ratio. There are a couple turbo Hondas around here that are 10.5 running 8-10psi daily. The key thing is proper fuel and ignition control.