what style disks are the best

IRISHmx-3 · Post by **IRISHmx-3** » July 12th, 2007, 6:09 pm

I'm prepping the car for track use and cant afford a big break kit so im looking to upgrade my pads and disks the main question im faced with is whats ging to be better for me?
Drilled
groved(slotted)
Drilled & slotted
Full disk

please your oppinions guys!

nope-mx3 · Post by **nope-mx3** » July 12th, 2007, 6:31 pm

I got slotted & drilled now.
Next time I`m probably just getting slotted discs.

-n

IRISHmx-3 · Post by **IRISHmx-3** » July 12th, 2007, 6:34 pm

and why is that? just to see the difference? or what?

nope-mx3 · Post by **nope-mx3** » July 12th, 2007, 6:36 pm

Drilled discs can crack a lot easier.
not totally, but hairline cracks from the drilled holes.
If you get such cracks here in Norway, and you get stopped in a technical check. You get an immediate appointment to show new discs.

-n

IRISHmx-3 · Post by **IRISHmx-3** » July 12th, 2007, 6:45 pm

oh well thats understandable!

Whisper · Post by **Whisper** » July 12th, 2007, 7:01 pm

I'd recommend full/blank disks for track use. Any kind of drilling or cutting done to the disks reduces the amount of heat absorbing material, and makes the disk more fragile. Slotted are also very hard to get turned.

IRISHmx-3 · Post by **IRISHmx-3** » July 12th, 2007, 7:18 pm

I Know loads of groups fr groved and drilled! who makes he beast blanks? and also remembering i have the SI [RS] 1.5 i need rears too!

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » July 13th, 2007, 10:17 am

Most any blank rotor will be the same as the next brand. I ususally use the cheapest rotor I can get my hands on. The real place to spend money and get better braking is in the pads. Remember, the more racey the pads the more heat they need to opperate. I've seen plenty of people talk badly about good pads. It is usually not the pad, but that the user didn't understand what they were buying. B/c street driving doesn't create alot of heat in the brakes a performance pad will stop the car more slowly if not used aggressively.

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » July 13th, 2007, 1:18 pm

PATDIESEL wrote:Most any blank rotor will be the same as the next brand. I ususally use the cheapest rotor I can get my hands on. The real place to spend money and get better braking is in the pads. Remember, the more racey the pads the more heat they need to opperate. I've seen plenty of people talk badly about good pads. It is usually not the pad, but that the user didn't understand what they were buying. B/c street driving doesn't create alot of heat in the brakes a performance pad will stop the car more slowly if not used aggressively.

Agree on the rotor comment. Gray iron is gray iron there is little metallurgically to improve it. Along with selecting the right pads for the type of driving you actually do, not dream of doing. The biggest bang for the buck to increase braking performance is to maintain the front brake calipers with every oil change and maintain or improve the suspension rather than throwing money at visual improvements. A rear to front weight shift when braking due to weak springs and struts increase stopping distances as do sticking caliper that is only applying pressure to the inside pad.

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » July 13th, 2007, 1:49 pm

IRISHmx-3 wrote:I Know loads of groups fr groved and drilled! who makes he beast blanks? and also remembering i have the SI [RS] 1.5 i need rears too!

You being Europe you do have one option that most of us in North America don't have. I recently found that the 11.2" front rotors for a 1.9 TDI Fiat Grande Punto Sport are almost dimentionally identical to the stock front rotors the 323 family of cars other than the OD. I recently had 3 set shipped over from Portugal along will 2 of the super duty G25 MXt also only used in Europe. For now I will be using them with the stock 22V14 calipers with an adaptor bracket but have been reworking old machining drawings to use a Wilwood Dynalite 4 pot caliper as soon as I get around to calculating which piston size to use for best braking balance. For the rear I did managed get my hands on a pair of the few remaining 10.8" rear rotors for a mid 90's Familia RS which there were only 100 cars made and sold in Japan only

IRISHmx-3 · Post by **IRISHmx-3** » July 13th, 2007, 3:42 pm

would fitting them mean i would need to change the callapers too? changing the the 11.5" like!

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » July 13th, 2007, 4:08 pm

The 285mm Fiat rotor should be a direct bolt on to the front 323/ MX-3 hubs in place of the stock 254mm rotor. They have the same offset and the same 22mm disc width. I haven't got around to unpacking the crated so the only issue I can see is the some Fiat's use a 4 X 98mm wheel bolt pattern and some have the same 4 X 100 bolt pattern and the shop in Lisbon wasn't very clear on which it is. To use the stock calipers you would need to machine a simple stepped adaptor bracket to space the caliper out for a larger pitch circle diameter and flatten out the dust shield behind the disc. Sometimes I wish we still had the assembly shop in Annicotty it was much easier getting answers from the countermen in Eire.

Nd4SpdSe · Post by **Nd4SpdSe** » July 14th, 2007, 12:01 pm

Why would you want to use larger rotors? Especially if the pads don't take advantage of the extra surface, as well your adding more rotational mass to the wheels

IRISHmx-3 · Post by **IRISHmx-3** » July 14th, 2007, 12:40 pm

think ill keep to the mx-3 parts
new disks and pads

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » July 16th, 2007, 4:43 pm

how wonderful!! i never thought id see the day others would also recommend blank rotors and good pads for braking upgrades. i remember years ago when i used to get flamed for making that kind of recommendation. the ricer mx3 owner population decreases and the number of tuners increases.

x2