b6-bp swap? how good is this exactly?
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mazdamx3sohc
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b6-bp swap? how good is this exactly?
im just asking a question everyone with a stock b6 wants to know...in all seriousness we all race em time to time with the b6...i AM doing this swap from sohc to bp...right now i beat pretty much all civics, unless they are aspirated...i beat a lot of decent cars...what kind of cars do you beat with a stock bp motor? and how much of a difference did you notice from the stock motor to bp?
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Limegreen mx-3
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u'll find out when u finish doing the swap.
(12.4@118@18psi) 92 MX-3, KIA (BP-DE)Swap, Electromotive TEC II Standalone, 8,200 Rev Limit, Custom Intake/Exhaust Manifold, 1,000cc PTE Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Aeromotive FPR, 80MM Holley TB, MSD 8.5MM Wires, NGK V-Power #8, SC6262 Turbo, 3 in. DownPipe, Tial WG/BOV, 600HP PTE FMIC, 2.5IN Intercooler Piping, EQUUS/Autometer KIA G-Series Tran, Extreme ACT Clutch, Built BP in starting process.
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mazdamx3sohc
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JWMotorsports
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We had a lightened MX-3 with a stock NA BP, stock headers, Whalbro 255lph fuel pump, 9lb SPEC flywheel, S-AFC, Jacobs Ice Pac, Nology Plug Wires, custom intake, custom exhaust (headers back), NGK V-Power Plugs gapped to .065 (no thats not a typo), ACT pressure plate with 6-puck solid hub disc and the ignition majorly advanced...I'm talking 25+ degrees at idle. It would walk stangs...easily. Then we added a Mitsu 16G turbo, RC 440cc injectors, side mount IC and at only 7psi it made over 190WHP and over 200ft/lb of torque. That setup spun all the way down the track to 9 flat all day in the 1/8th mile.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
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mazdamx3sohc
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now u see..THAT'S what i wanna hear...JWMotorsports wrote:We had a lightened MX-3 with a stock NA BP, stock headers, Whalbro 255lph fuel pump, 9lb SPEC flywheel, S-AFC, Jacobs Ice Pac, Nology Plug Wires, custom intake, custom exhaust (headers back), NGK V-Power Plugs gapped to .065 (no thats not a typo), ACT pressure plate with 6-puck solid hub disc and the ignition majorly advanced...I'm talking 25+ degrees at idle. It would walk stangs...easily. Then we added a Mitsu 16G turbo, RC 440cc injectors, side mount IC and at only 7psi it made over 190WHP and over 200ft/lb of torque. That setup spun all the way down the track to 9 flat all day in the 1/8th mile.
i've heard 18psi WELL TUNED and it'll run for atleast 30K...mazdamx3sohc wrote:nice what kind of psi can a stock bp motor handle max? safely.
Safe psi i'd say 12-15 still on a 11.5:1 or MAX 12:1 tune...
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mazdamx3sohc
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depends on the turbo...T4 probably...he's getting 200hp on a small/medium turbo...@ 7psi tuned...mazdamx3sohc wrote:what kinda horsepower will that be at that psi? also i dont really know much about ratios and how they work if someone would like to school me.
Rough guess....double that and a bit...your looking at between 375 and 450whp..
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mazdamx3sohc
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JWMotorsports
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lol...you put a T4 turbo on and your power band won't start untill about 4500rpm. A T4 turbo is verrry laggy under that rpm on the 1.6 or 1.8L engines with out using anti-lag, or nitrous.
The turbo we used on the BP powered MX-3 is a small Mitsubishi 16G which is one step larger than the Mitsu 14B that comes stock on the Manual trans first Gen DSM's. It is a very good street turbo as it has just a bit of lag out of the hole but is very responsive most every where else. It is hard to beat when only looking at price.
The lil 16G can be picked up really cheap brand new ... http://www.forcedperformance.com
It only flows enough to support up to around 320HP and shouldn't be pushed much higher than 21ish psi in bursts...it has about the same peak flow or a bit less than the Garrett GT28RS Disco Potatoe and costs only about 1/3 of the price. After about 21psi though the lil 16G outlet temps sky rocket due to the small A/R compressor housing.
The BP and B6 engines with the small rods (they use the same rods except in the GTX and GTR engines which are beefier and interchangeable) can hold around 300WHP reliably (on the small rods). The upper limits for the small rods & cast pistons is about 400-450WHP @ 26psi which works for about 10,000 miles before it wears out the rods and snaps them just below the wrist pin (cyclic fatigue). Boost honestly doesn't make that much of a differance as long as you use a good intercooler and feed it fuel. What matters is the engines total power output. The HP & torque is a direct result of the force that directly loads the rotating assembly. The higher the force the higher the HP & torque. They are directly connected. Boost is some what decieving. For example a lil 16G will make around 320HP @ 21psi....replace that turbo with a GT3076R and it would make around 400HP @ 21psi. Even though both turbos are running 21psi the GT3076R is putting a LOT more stress on the rotating assembly at the same boost pressure as the lil 16G. The reason is because the larger turbo moves more air per pound of boost than the smaller turbo. More air means you can burn more fuel. More fuel being burned is what makes more HP & torque, directly causing more stress on the rotating assembly. This is just a glimpse into the infinate factors that determine engine life. You need to monitor BOTH AFR's and EGT's to properly tune any engine. EGT's are only good for an early warning system that melt down is approaching. AFR's tell you what is going to destroy your engine. To rich washes the walls and wears out the rings and walls quickly...to lean turns your engine into a metal foundry.
The turbo we used on the BP powered MX-3 is a small Mitsubishi 16G which is one step larger than the Mitsu 14B that comes stock on the Manual trans first Gen DSM's. It is a very good street turbo as it has just a bit of lag out of the hole but is very responsive most every where else. It is hard to beat when only looking at price.
The lil 16G can be picked up really cheap brand new ... http://www.forcedperformance.com
It only flows enough to support up to around 320HP and shouldn't be pushed much higher than 21ish psi in bursts...it has about the same peak flow or a bit less than the Garrett GT28RS Disco Potatoe and costs only about 1/3 of the price. After about 21psi though the lil 16G outlet temps sky rocket due to the small A/R compressor housing.
The BP and B6 engines with the small rods (they use the same rods except in the GTX and GTR engines which are beefier and interchangeable) can hold around 300WHP reliably (on the small rods). The upper limits for the small rods & cast pistons is about 400-450WHP @ 26psi which works for about 10,000 miles before it wears out the rods and snaps them just below the wrist pin (cyclic fatigue). Boost honestly doesn't make that much of a differance as long as you use a good intercooler and feed it fuel. What matters is the engines total power output. The HP & torque is a direct result of the force that directly loads the rotating assembly. The higher the force the higher the HP & torque. They are directly connected. Boost is some what decieving. For example a lil 16G will make around 320HP @ 21psi....replace that turbo with a GT3076R and it would make around 400HP @ 21psi. Even though both turbos are running 21psi the GT3076R is putting a LOT more stress on the rotating assembly at the same boost pressure as the lil 16G. The reason is because the larger turbo moves more air per pound of boost than the smaller turbo. More air means you can burn more fuel. More fuel being burned is what makes more HP & torque, directly causing more stress on the rotating assembly. This is just a glimpse into the infinate factors that determine engine life. You need to monitor BOTH AFR's and EGT's to properly tune any engine. EGT's are only good for an early warning system that melt down is approaching. AFR's tell you what is going to destroy your engine. To rich washes the walls and wears out the rings and walls quickly...to lean turns your engine into a metal foundry.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
just as an inquiry...also this may help MazdaMX3SOHC...
Protege 96 BP (looks like a Mx-3 DOHC16)
I think I've said My goal is 200-230Ft-lbs with any Horsepower figure..
I have a T3 .42 gated at 10psi...
I'm planning on getting the ETDRACING.com BP FWD manifold...
I have a Rising Rate Adjustable FPR coming soon...
I will get an Ebay Intercooler and make my own piping from Crappy-tire steel pipe, bent to fit and then powdercoated..
Exhaust getting redone post turbo..2.5" sounds like plenty for a 16 @ 10-12psi...
I don't plan on upgrading anything other then maybe a MSquirt sometime in the fall..
AFR, Vac/Boost and EGT guages in 3 weeks...
Anything i should add to that list?
Protege 96 BP (looks like a Mx-3 DOHC16)
I think I've said My goal is 200-230Ft-lbs with any Horsepower figure..
I have a T3 .42 gated at 10psi...
I'm planning on getting the ETDRACING.com BP FWD manifold...
I have a Rising Rate Adjustable FPR coming soon...
I will get an Ebay Intercooler and make my own piping from Crappy-tire steel pipe, bent to fit and then powdercoated..
Exhaust getting redone post turbo..2.5" sounds like plenty for a 16 @ 10-12psi...
I don't plan on upgrading anything other then maybe a MSquirt sometime in the fall..
AFR, Vac/Boost and EGT guages in 3 weeks...
Anything i should add to that list?
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mazdamx3sohc
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Limegreen mx-3
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u guys think small LOL j/k i retact my statement i don't want no war. I want a SC67-69 turbo and a 600hp rated intercooler from percsion turbo now thats a T4 size turbo small one but thats what i want. (compared to the larger T4's i mean.)
yes iam aware of lag but the intentsions i have is for a full race setup no more street mx-3. and i have aother mx-3 im boosting yahhh to sohc power yahhhhhhhhhh. im not going to be so slow.
yes iam aware of lag but the intentsions i have is for a full race setup no more street mx-3. and i have aother mx-3 im boosting yahhh to sohc power yahhhhhhhhhh. im not going to be so slow.
(12.4@118@18psi) 92 MX-3, KIA (BP-DE)Swap, Electromotive TEC II Standalone, 8,200 Rev Limit, Custom Intake/Exhaust Manifold, 1,000cc PTE Injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Aeromotive FPR, 80MM Holley TB, MSD 8.5MM Wires, NGK V-Power #8, SC6262 Turbo, 3 in. DownPipe, Tial WG/BOV, 600HP PTE FMIC, 2.5IN Intercooler Piping, EQUUS/Autometer KIA G-Series Tran, Extreme ACT Clutch, Built BP in starting process.
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mx3autozam
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- Location: Kitchener
Re: b6-bp swap? how good is this exactly?
I find it very hard to find that you beat almost "all" civics.mazdamx3sohc wrote:im just asking a question everyone with a stock b6 wants to know...in all seriousness we all race em time to time with the b6...i AM doing this swap from sohc to bp...right now i beat pretty much all civics, unless they are aspirated...i beat a lot of decent cars...what kind of cars do you beat with a stock bp motor? and how much of a difference did you notice from the stock motor to bp?
93 Mazda MX3 KLZE Turbo
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2RotorsNaDream
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He beats almost all of the bone stock 1.5L Civics he meant. And I told you before after the swap the car ends up being a low low 16 to mid 16 sec car. Your car now is probably a high 17 to low 18 sec car right now. Basically you'd be able to run with Civic EXs (SOHC VTEC), last gen Celica GTs, Audi and VW 1.8T stock, and cars like that.