Painting advice

Vanished · Post by **Vanished** » December 23rd, 2006, 7:33 pm

reaplacing the metal thats rusted. If its surface rust, you can brush or sand it off, but this seams like a bit more than that.

projectmx · Post by **projectmx** » December 23rd, 2006, 7:55 pm

what exactly are you basing that on? you haven't seen pics of the car or the car?

it looks like surface ruse mostly... that is why i plan on using a die grinder or somethign similar to strip the car down and go a little bellow even the surface rust so i can be sure to get it all.... then i plan on doing exactly what a shop does... use some body filler to get rid of the dents for the most part (not looking for a perfect job so i'll skip dents that are small enough to not matter) then do primer... i dont' feel like doing a high gloss paint job since this isn't my show car just my DD... so i'll do a few coats of primer on top of a self etching primer should be enough to protect the car for a few years and at least look better than my white car which is only about 3/4's of a car

Silkwyrm · Post by **Silkwyrm** » December 26th, 2006, 1:48 pm

Without pics of the rust and such its hard to say for sure, but you probably have the right idea. When you get your etch primer, be carefull alot of primers are not waterproof. Look for one that says its an etch primer and a sealer. Another option is go over the spots after sanding or grinding away the rust with POR. It's good stuff for stopping any rust you may have missed and a great sealer.

projectmx · Post by **projectmx** » December 26th, 2006, 2:19 pm

i'd love to use por but it is a little over 120 a gallon so i'm not sure i will do that cause i'm planning on buying that for my mx-3's subframes ... but if there is any left over i could apply it to the former rust areas..

.. do i need the self etching primer to be waterproof even if i'm putting another coat of car body primer over it?

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » December 26th, 2006, 2:52 pm

just use epoxy primer.

Silkwyrm · Post by **Silkwyrm** » December 26th, 2006, 2:55 pm

Basically just need to make sure one of the two primers is also a sealer. Though it certainly wouldn't hurt if both are waterproof. I mean when you think about it, the car started off with a layer of OE primer, a base coat of paint and then a clear coat, and that rusted through. So I say the more layers of waterproof paint the better. Well up to a point, shouldn't be too thick either.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » December 27th, 2006, 11:00 am

Personally, I'd just do all the body work, scuff the whole paint job with a 400 grit wet sandpaper, then take it to a Maaco for a $300 special and call it a day.

projectmx · Post by **projectmx** » December 27th, 2006, 11:03 am

hmmm. well i hate macco with a passion before i knew about how bad their work was i had them fix my protege after its accident.. never again.. besides there is no maaco around kankakee that i've seen and that is where the car will be... i can probably get a friend of the family at the ford dealers body shop to help me pain it for that much... maybe less if i have him just do the primer look like i was wanting, i had forgotten about him till just now... he does really good work and i know he won't charge much if i do all the sanding and prep

projectmx · Post by **projectmx** » January 2nd, 2007, 5:54 pm

http://www.grmotorsports.com/board/view ... c&start=20

here is the thread from over at grass roots they had a lot of good info and posted another good thread about it

tysoe · Post by **tysoe** » January 27th, 2007, 1:51 am

you might want to try rolling on some paint like in these threads. Seems to work quite well if your looking for a cheap solution. I might give it a try on my white 92. I've neglected it because of the miata, but just started on it as a fun project car again.

Only problem is the white paint peels off, About 2 square feet came off when I put the hose on, so I'm busy sanding down ready to try the roller

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...=0&fpart=1&vc=1

MazdaManiacMx3 · Post by **MazdaManiacMx3** » February 9th, 2007, 12:05 am

It's as easy as this ..

1 Sand any rust off thats on surface scratch down to metal , make a clean bare surface , If it's rott , fiberglass a small section on sand smooth and use body filler as needed .

2 Wash the car with dish detergent based soap ..

3 wetsand the car with 220 on the rust parts and 360-400 on the normal painted parts ( if your feeling lazy sand the rust spots and then just use scotch brite pads on the car (the little green pads to clean dishes , yeah those Use the brown ones) and sand the paint til its not shiny anymore ) Put some time into this as it will help make the paint adhere..

4 Spray the car down and wipe all dirt and debris down
Wipe the car down with a Acetone covered rag(wear gloves)

5 If you have a compressor Go to your local cheapie hardware store , and go buy a spraygun for like $10 If you don't have a cheap hardware store I can pick one up for you and ship it to you for like 10-20 bucks total..

6 Go to a paint store and tell then you want the cheapest Fleet color acrylic enamel Single stage paint , pick your color ( prolly about 13-15 a quart)

7 Spray self etching primer on the rust repair spots

8 Spray the car (look for spraying techniques online )

9 If you dont have a compressor prep the car as described above and spray it with spray cans .. But take your time .. Light coats stick and look better , plus they last longer ..

SO thats your ghetto paint steps..
Alot of those rules apply to a budget decent paint job .. but have been modified for cheapie needs ..