Disapointed at Hawk HPS

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 8th, 2006, 5:51 am

I'm a bit disapointed at my Hawk HPS pads. After two track meets they are almost gone. I like the brake force they give, but now when there's 1/4 left on the pad, they are worthless.

Will the HP Plus last longer? Is there any better option for our cars?

I use the pads on plain Brembo discs, SS brake lines and ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

Nd4SpdSe · Post by **Nd4SpdSe** » June 9th, 2006, 3:02 am

I'm extremely happy with my PRM ULX Ceramic pads. I dont know if you drive your car year round, although I store mine for the winter, my pads are about half way worn and it's been just over a year since they were installed. Although I haven't had the pleasure of taking it to a track meet or autocross event, they have endure many many hard driving events

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 9th, 2006, 4:20 am

I think my big problem was boiling brake fluid. I will change it soon and hope it will be better. I looked again at the pads and there's 1/3 left.
But for next year I want a bit better pads.
I don't use the race pads during winter.

Steeb · Post by **Steeb** » June 9th, 2006, 5:13 am

try brake ducts and upgraded master cylinder

you might want to look into carbotech pads. i believe they have higher performance brake pad options available than hawk offers. not to mention with matching rear pads that way you arent increasing your front brake bias even more and none in the rear.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » June 10th, 2006, 10:33 am

Macen wrote:I think my big problem was boiling brake fluid.

You think you were boiling Super Blue fluid?

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 10th, 2006, 4:47 pm

Yes, I think so. Now when I drive normal I have to push the pedal >75% to get the car stopped. When I have time I will bleed the system. There must be air in the system, because I had that same pedal feel when I had problems with air in the system a year ago.

Stopping from 200km/h to 70km/h generates a lot of heat. I have no extra brake cooling. I have to build a good cooling with some hoses from the front. And I think that my stock honey comb rims dosen't let that much air to the brakes.

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » June 11th, 2006, 10:54 pm

Macen wrote:I'm a bit disapointed at my Hawk HPS pads. After two track meets they are almost gone. I like the brake force they give, but now when there's 1/4 left on the pad, they are worthless.
Will the HP Plus last longer? Is there any better option for our cars?
I use the pads on plain Brembo discs, SS brake lines and ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

Wowers!! I really didn't need to hear that. I was going by Gro's recommendation on the HPS up front and Axxesss on the rear. Nut's just did the install for all of the goodies 2 weeks ago too. I do notice the howling type sound made by the vented CD rotors now. It's quite a distimct sound too.

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » June 12th, 2006, 10:30 am

I haven't heard of a problem with short life of Hawk pads before.
Did you have the discs resurfaced before you used them. Sometimes they are a tad warped stock (shouldn't be though) and that can cause faster wear. I know Justin has used the Hawk pads for about a year now and they are still fine. (normal driving plus a few track events)
I use ceramic pads and wouldn't recomend them for track duty. I used them last year at the tracks and they worked fine, but I'm sure some Hawks and Stillen pads would stop much better.
Isn't Super Blue a synthetic fluid? If so it shouldn't boil. You might check your calipers, if they are sticking it will wear the pad quickly (especially a street/race compound pad).

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 12th, 2006, 1:31 pm

The discs (plain Brembos) are also new for the season.
Why can't brake fluid boil? It has a boil point just like other fluids. I will bleed the system this weekend when I get back from this week's work.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » June 12th, 2006, 2:14 pm

Macen wrote: Why can't brake fluid boil?

It can, but it's just not likely that you're pushing a high quality synthetic to its operating limits on our braking system unless there was water or air in the line.

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » June 12th, 2006, 2:22 pm

Macen wrote:Why can't brake fluid boil? It has a boil point just like other fluids. I will bleed the system this weekend when I get back from this week's work.

It can, but you have to get it really hot, contaiminated, or get air/water mixed in. Synthetics usually don't boil and good fluids (AP racing) can be run around 500 degrees F. Not sure what that is in Celsius. 500 is really hot for brake fluid to get down to.

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 12th, 2006, 2:54 pm

Then I must have water in the fluid.

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 18th, 2006, 6:21 am

I bled the brakes today, and the problem is still there. Can it be my master brake cylinder that is faulty or seals that are broken?

jaydog5678 · Post by **jaydog5678** » June 18th, 2006, 10:59 pm

Macen wrote:I'm a bit disapointed at my Hawk HPS pads. After two track meets they are almost gone. I like the brake force they give, but now when there's 1/4 left on the pad, they are worthless.

Will the HP Plus last longer? Is there any better option for our cars?

I use the pads on plain Brembo discs, SS brake lines and ATE Super Blue brake fluid.

That kind of wear is not normal. There is something else wrong with your brake hydraulics.

I have the same pads, used them for a track event with drums out back and still have over 50% of the pad left. I've been driving on them since last yr. HP+ pads will not last as long. The compound was designed to "bite" even harder than the HP pads and even chew through a pair of rotors in one track event. I've had these pads before the street pads and wore them out pretty quick.

On your problem, what's the condition of your calipers? Try retracting the piston back into the caliper body with the bleed screw open. Do they go back without much effort? Do the slider pins move freely? Any leaks along the lines? If everything checks out, the master cyl. may be at fault.

Macen · Post by **Macen** » June 19th, 2006, 1:32 am

I haven't checked the pistons. But the slider pins are new and greased up.
The biggest problem is the brake fluid, because the pedal is mushy and I have to put it to the metal to get brake force even when I drive at the street.

I will buy new Motul RBF 600 brake fluid and change the whole system. Hope that helps.

MX-3.com

Disapointed at Hawk HPS

Disapointed at Hawk HPS

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