Passenger Ball Joint
Passenger Ball Joint
anyone know how to remove a seized ball joint.
I have to replace the axle but the ball joint wont budge, tried everything...
I have to replace the axle but the ball joint wont budge, tried everything...
![Image](http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/kp2t23/P1030419.jpg)
![Image](http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/kp2t23/P1040162.jpg)
![Image](http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/kp2t23/reworked.jpg)
![Image](http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/kp2t23/P1030502.jpg)
![Image](http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p107/kp2t23/P1040147.jpg)
- happyclown
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- PATDIESEL
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You can buy a ball joint seperator for a air hammer. That is if you own a air hammer and compressor.
A regular fork tool will work just fine with a hammer and a lot of a--.
WD-40 never hurt anyone either.
A regular fork tool will work just fine with a hammer and a lot of a--.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
WD-40 never hurt anyone either.
![Image](http://www.patdiesel.atlantamx3.com/MX-3/patdieselsigMX-3.jpg)
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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I had a hell of a time with the ball joints as well, but I dont see any reason to take of the sway bar end links. Like happy clown alluded to, some pen. oil, a pickle fork and a hammer will work wonders. If that doesnt work, I used 2 pickle forks and that worked for me. I put them in at opposite sides and wedged then around the ball joint kinda like this < l >. unfortunately this def destorys the boot and you'll need a new ball joint....
However all of this is prob unnessasary.
If your trying to take out the axle there isnt an need to take the bj off. I have put axles in and out a lot of times, and really I you need to do is disconnect the strut from the knuckle.(2 17mm bolts) Once those are disconnected it should swing away enough to take out the axle. You may have to tap on the end of the axle to get it back through the knuckle but its not hard really.
However all of this is prob unnessasary.
If your trying to take out the axle there isnt an need to take the bj off. I have put axles in and out a lot of times, and really I you need to do is disconnect the strut from the knuckle.(2 17mm bolts) Once those are disconnected it should swing away enough to take out the axle. You may have to tap on the end of the axle to get it back through the knuckle but its not hard really.
93 GS-DE,mx6 tranny, obx 2nd gen headers, highflow cat n 2.25" catback, 65mm tb,CAI, mazdaspeed mounts, SPEC Stage I clutch kit, new K8 flywheel, SRD C.A.B., Intrax, S.T. braces
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- happyclown
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I actually had the assembly appart when I got my ball joint out. I took off the two bolts and kept the ball joint in place. When I got new wheel bearing put in the guy told me to look into a new ball joint. I compared it to a new one and wow
I held the assembly on a table vice and popped it right out![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
I held the assembly on a table vice and popped it right out
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
1993 RS Teal
- PATDIESEL
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When changing an axle I've found it be good practice to grease the axle splines a tad so that they don't rust to the spindle. It makes it ALOT easier to remove next time they need replacing.
![Image](http://www.patdiesel.atlantamx3.com/MX-3/patdieselsigMX-3.jpg)
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
- happyclown
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