Ny car is running like crap, and I can smell gas while driving down the road. It spits and sputters alot too. My gas milieage has also gone out the window. It is also loosing oil (valves?) as posted in another thread. I am giving it a good tune up this weekend, but am not sure what all I should replace to make her run good once again.
I plan on buying:
Dist cap
Dist rotor
spark plugs
plug wires
PCV valve
fuel filter? do these car have inline filters? autozone does not have them in stock?
I just want to make sure that I am not missing something obvious here. I do not have any check engine light come on so I think my o2 sensors are good.
Is there anything else that can make my car run bad?
tune up questions
- vozaday2000
- Regular Member
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try timing your car.
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'94 MX-3 GS KLZE, KL01 Cams, Fidanza Flywheel, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, WeaponR Ram Air, 2 1/4 exhaust, Nichi Neptune Rims, Toyo Proxy 45 Rubber.
'94 MX-3 GS KLZE, KL01 Cams, Fidanza Flywheel, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, WeaponR Ram Air, 2 1/4 exhaust, Nichi Neptune Rims, Toyo Proxy 45 Rubber.
- jschrauwen
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Here's some of the things that may be considered;
Disty cap - just lift it back and with a sharp flat edged instrument scrape the disty contacts removing all deposits and leaving a flat smooth edge.
Disty Rotor - Again, clean the contact edge very finely with an emery cloth removing all of the black built up carbon. As well, remove any carbon from the centre spring loaded tab that make contact with the disty centre electrode. Ensure that you don't push down too hard on that tab so that it will no longer make adequate contact with the centre carbon electrode from the disty cap. If so, then lightly bend back up to it's normal position. I've made previous disty caps and rotors for our cars last for over 4 years at a time by merely doing this simple procedure yearly. Much easier on the wallet too.
Spark Plugs - Good choice to replace annually.
PCV Valve - For the cost ... why not ... replace annually.
Air Filter - If using stock air box, or even if you're not, replace the air filter is always an annual event. Unless it's a re-useable oil type then annual cleaning and re-oiling will be required.
Fuel Filter - It does use an in-line type fuel filter and I believe I would replace it every couple of years or when you're unsure of when it was last changed. A Mazda fuel filter will do fine.
Plug wires - Check to make sure they're serviceable. At night and with lights off and engine running, use a water mister with a very fine spray and spray over the plug leads. Any shorts will become readily visible and of course will need to be tended to. Pull the plug caps (V6) and inspect for any charing on the sides of the tubes that would also indicate a crack/short.
By the sounds of it your car may have gone into what's known as "limp mode", but I believe a CEL code usually accompanies that.
Disty cap - just lift it back and with a sharp flat edged instrument scrape the disty contacts removing all deposits and leaving a flat smooth edge.
Disty Rotor - Again, clean the contact edge very finely with an emery cloth removing all of the black built up carbon. As well, remove any carbon from the centre spring loaded tab that make contact with the disty centre electrode. Ensure that you don't push down too hard on that tab so that it will no longer make adequate contact with the centre carbon electrode from the disty cap. If so, then lightly bend back up to it's normal position. I've made previous disty caps and rotors for our cars last for over 4 years at a time by merely doing this simple procedure yearly. Much easier on the wallet too.
Spark Plugs - Good choice to replace annually.
PCV Valve - For the cost ... why not ... replace annually.
Air Filter - If using stock air box, or even if you're not, replace the air filter is always an annual event. Unless it's a re-useable oil type then annual cleaning and re-oiling will be required.
Fuel Filter - It does use an in-line type fuel filter and I believe I would replace it every couple of years or when you're unsure of when it was last changed. A Mazda fuel filter will do fine.
Plug wires - Check to make sure they're serviceable. At night and with lights off and engine running, use a water mister with a very fine spray and spray over the plug leads. Any shorts will become readily visible and of course will need to be tended to. Pull the plug caps (V6) and inspect for any charing on the sides of the tubes that would also indicate a crack/short.
By the sounds of it your car may have gone into what's known as "limp mode", but I believe a CEL code usually accompanies that.
'92 GS-ZE - sold, '95 GS - sold, '02 Protege LX - Daughter, '00 Audi A4 2.8 QTip, Ducati TT2
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
90 JDM RHD 300ZX TT - 572.1 RWHP | 590.0 RWTQ | 21 PSI | Pump gas
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ugh i HATE limp mode..really the vris solenoids wont open properly and your car ew...
-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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- Junior Member
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- Location: Clarksville, AR
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o2 sensor replace it, in my storm i had crappy accerlation but after about 2.5-3 RPM it was good, MPG was crap, and spit and sputtered alot on take offs or @ WOT.
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