Still wont start

[wheelmanmx3]

I change the distributor and the car still wont start. The mass airflow sensor got a little banged around when i hit a bump on the starter. Any body think that the car will not give spark if the maf is not working properly. I have run out of Ideas

[solo_ryder]

what happens when you turn the key? any noises?

[georgechicken]

I'm guessing that you've posted previously somewhere what happened prior to the distributor being changed? I sure hope so... however, with this bit of info here, we can only speculate of the hundreds of possible problems. If you're getting no signal from the VAF, you should still get spark. I'm going to make a semi-educated shot in the dark and guess that you have probably reattached the wires to the wrong places on the distributor. Did you replace the complete distributor? Was the cap or rotor ever removed? It is possible to install the rotor 120 degrees off, and that will keep the car from starting. Provided that ALL you have done is replaced the distributor, then first check for spark. To do this, take a plug and attach it into the plug wire and to its respective place on teh distributor. Lay the plug firmly on a metal portion of the intake or take a wire with alligator clips and connect the prong on the plug with one end, and clip to the manifold (or other suitable ground point) with the other end. (just ground the damn plug somehow... ) Now, have someone crank the motor over for about 10 seconds or until you see a bright blue spark jump across the plug. For this to occur, then you MUST have the plug grounded WELL. There are other ways and tools, but this is the most simple. If you DO have spark, then check the order of arrangement of the wires in relation to the distributor. If not, then please, give us all of your info (initial problem, what all you've removed/replaced/unplugged/etc.) and maybe then one of us will be better knowledged to help you further. Good luck!

Daniel

[wheelmanmx3]

Backround information, i was driving on the highway and the car started to hesitate alittle why accelerating, but it was doing it before and when i checked for spark it was very weak. So while driving the car just cut off and would start back up since.
all i did was change the distributor the rotor was put back in the same direction and the plugs all put back in the same spot. i had them labled. I checked for spark with a screw driver, by putting the screw driver in the wire and doing the same thing and grounding it. I did not change any thing else. The cap is new only a couple of weeks old the plugs also and the wires are 1 day old and there is still no spark. I am just out of things and i am not exactly sure why there would be no spark if all the ignition components are new or remanufactured(distributor).

[Rick Johnson]

Maybe your timing belt went? Our cars will run <like s---> but run nonetheless with the VAF off.....

[jimishadow]

look in oil fill hole while someone cranks it to see if cams turn

[wheelmanmx3]

I checked this morning to se if the cams were spining and no spin so now I have to get the car towed to the shop. Thanks peoples for your input

[georgechicken]

damnit, i wanted to be the hero... I guess Ishould check more often though... anyways... Double check that the timing belt is broken before doing that... aside from peering in the oil filler hole, take the cap off of the distributor, and have someone tell you if the rotor spins or not... The good news if the timing belt is broken is that the K motors are non-interference. This means that you dont have to worry about the valves and pistons colliding when the belt breaks. Poor honda guys and some nissan guys (I believe) arent this lucky... Anyways... The timing belt is something that you can do yourself, especially if you put your ZE in by yourself. Not incredibly hard to do. But while the belt is being replaced, go ahead and change the following if you havent already done so in the last year or two (24k miles):
Cam seals, front main seal, cam blind caps (the little caps in the side of each head-- one is behind the engine hook on the front head, and the other is concealed behind the timing belt cover on the rear head), WATER PUMP, o-ring on power steering pump pressure pipe, power steering hoses, radiator hoses, belts, and inspect the crank pulley's outer side between the hub and the metal belt-contact surface in the rubber for cracking. if it's dry-rotten or cracked, then it's wise to go ahead and replace the crank pulley now before it separates and causes more headaches. Got anymore questions, issues, problems? lemme know! good luck!

Daniel