how much should i shave??
how much should i shave??
Hey guys going to be getting my head shaved so just wondering how much can i get off?? Looking for the most gains and still be reliable!! thanks
- jaydog5678
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- Typhoonk
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My two cents by typhoonk
1. Get the head and block shaved flat (not too much!!!!)
2. Get head rebuilt, port and polish, and port matching to manifolds, new spring set, new valves, etc.
3. If you got a lot of money do up the block too so it's bullet proof
4. and if your really spending money. turbo, turbo, turbo TURBO!!!!!!!
thank you. This has been brought to you by my two cents.
thank you.
1. Get the head and block shaved flat (not too much!!!!)
2. Get head rebuilt, port and polish, and port matching to manifolds, new spring set, new valves, etc.
3. If you got a lot of money do up the block too so it's bullet proof
4. and if your really spending money. turbo, turbo, turbo TURBO!!!!!!!
thank you. This has been brought to you by my two cents.
thank you.
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Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info
Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info
- Typhoonk
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.020 shave to get it flat
Then bore out the cylinders so you have a 1.9L or something, get better pistons with a higher compression ratio
Then bore out the cylinders so you have a 1.9L or something, get better pistons with a higher compression ratio
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Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info
Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info
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There are several variables you need to factor into the equation. Typically you can shave upto around .040" off, I think the B6T's limit is .060" because of the 7.9:1 compression (dished pistons give more clearance). What you need to do is get what ever cams, valves, and pistons your going to run along with a can of playdoe from Walmart. Assemble the engine and place some play doe into the valve recesses on top of the pistons. The most accurate way to check the clearance is to assemble the engine and install the timing belt. Useing the crank bolt, rotate the entire assembly atleast 2 full rotations (I'd do 4-6 rotations). This will show you the true clearance between the valve and piston at it's closest point. It is possible to run a valve lift so large it would hit the piston if the both reached their peak travel at the same time (adjustable cam gears are handy for cheating this). You have to do this to determine how much you can shave off the head. If your doing the block and the head divide your smallest clearance measurement by two and remove that number from both. If you accidentally remove to much don't worry, there are shims and thicker head gaskets made just for that scinario.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
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PS
Shaving the head increases HP because your increasing the compression ration. When you shave the head your removing material from the side that mates to the block. By doing so it moves the combustion chamber of the head closer to the piston, decreasing the volume of the combustion chamber when compressed (piston at TDC).
Shaving the head increases HP because your increasing the compression ration. When you shave the head your removing material from the side that mates to the block. By doing so it moves the combustion chamber of the head closer to the piston, decreasing the volume of the combustion chamber when compressed (piston at TDC).
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/354836
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
B6T, APEXi Silvia IC, HKS SSQV, Magnacore KV85 Wires, NGK V-Power, Haltech E6K, Accel 300+ Digital Ign w/ coil, Accel 375+ controller, JWMmotorsports turbo manifold & exhaust, custom Garret GT-R series turbo, MAZDASPEED mounts, SRD Bushings, Pacesetter Short Shift, entire Pro LX drive train w/ custom ACT clutch (I'm the first to succeed this on B6T), Weapon-R, and lots more stuff!
- Tunes67
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If your going to shave your head down, I would recommend replacing your head bolts. The stress and shearing of a aluminum head on a iron block are unreal from the rapid temperature changes. If you raise your compression ratio this will increase those stresses and if your using old head bolts that are prone to flexing and stretching, you increase your chances of blowing your head gasket at a inopportune moment ![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Tunes67
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Tunes67