Stalling, reluctant to start and diagnostics?

Caroline · Post by **Caroline** » February 1st, 2005, 2:22 pm

Hi

I have just bought a 1991 1.5 DOHC mx3 and I have two problems that could be related.

The car takes a long time to start. It seems as if there is not enough power in the battery, but this was replaced so its not that.

The second problem is when I am slowing down the car idol seems like the car is going to cut out. Once I actually am stopped for more than a second or two the idol is fine and the car drives perfectly otherwise.

Until yesterday it never cut out but it cut out twice since then.

I tried to do the diagnostics codes but for some reason the car doesn't have a CEL? Is theis correct?

I have no idea where to even start to try to fix this problem as Mazda in Ireland will not look at the car as it is a Japenese import.

If anyone can shed ANY light on what I could do it would be great.

Caroline

Grants · Post by **Grants** » February 1st, 2005, 9:34 pm

When you say it takes a long time to start do you mean it cranks over slowly or that it cranks for a long time?

Is it an auto or manual and what rpm is it idling at? You could probably just adjust the idle up a bit to overcome this problem. (Don't forget to bridge the TEN and GND in the diagnostics box before adjusting.)

No they don't all have CELs.

Caroline · Post by **Caroline** » February 2nd, 2005, 3:39 am

It cranks like it should but it turns over more than it should so it could take 3-5 seconds of cranking before it will start.

It is idles at about 700-800 when its not playing up. This morning it nearly stalled 3 times, the lights even flicked up twice but I gave it some petrol and prevented it.

The car is a manual.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » February 5th, 2005, 11:31 pm

The idle sounds about right but maybe you could bump it up a little bit to see if that stops the stalling problem.

Caroline · Post by **Caroline** » February 9th, 2005, 4:07 am

update on the problem:

the alternator belt snapped the other day, the mechanic said that because it was not fitted properly it could have been causing the problems. So he replaced the belt and did diagnostics on it. He said there was a pre ignition timing fault and a mis fire in cyl no 1. He said he reset everything and it should be running fine now, and it did for a day and now its gone back to doing the same thing again.

I just dont understand whats going on with it??

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » February 9th, 2005, 3:16 pm

Check for excessive play in the distributor shaft. You can also look at the inside of the distributor cap and look for a unusual wear ring around the central electrode (black thing sticking down in the middle) see if your rotor is impacting and scraping against the inside of your distributor cap.

Tunes67

Ateana · Post by **Ateana** » February 20th, 2005, 11:25 pm

i wasnt aware there was a 1991 1.5 dohc mx-3 ? 1994+ RS 1.6 DOHC 94- RS 1.6 sohc

Bradmx32003 · Post by **Bradmx32003** » February 20th, 2005, 11:38 pm

Someone mention when adjusting the idle screw on the TB, that you should have the TEN and GRD pins bridged. If this didnt happen could this POSSIBLY be giving me my wonky idle issues? Sometimes cutting out, sometimes fluctuating up and down from 1500-2500...

Ateana · Post by **Ateana** » February 21st, 2005, 1:01 am

this has been covered 100 times. check intake tube for cracks inspect MAF check timing makesure to look at diagnostic port and make sure its not connected still (TEN and GND). disconnect negative battery cable push brake like 10 times to reset ecu. check spark plugs and wires. check distributor and cap for corrosion. check belt tension and alternator. check compression. go through the entire list and do a complete tune up. if its still wonky then atleast you know its not all that

Bradmx32003 · Post by **Bradmx32003** » February 21st, 2005, 4:56 am

Simple yes or no would have done! Been though all the rest, just wasn't sure about that one point, thanks for the reply tho.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » February 21st, 2005, 5:05 am

Someone mention when adjusting the idle screw on the TB, that you should have the TEN and GRD pins bridged

yes