Still got a strange knocking/bumpingvibration sound from

[quicksliver]

Ok, here are the symptoms...

- Whenever i go over dips and/or bumps in the road, i get a strange vibration kinda bumping sound in front driver wheel area. Doesn't matter if im going fast or slow.

- Whenever i turn right i get the exacty same vibration/bumping sound in the front driver wheel area.

- I should also mention that my car tends to pull to the left when driving down the highway...\

-Here is what's screwed up though! If it's cold out and the car has been sitting for a while (8-10hours) and i go to drive it...the vibration/bumping sound in the front driver wheel area is WAYYYYYY more sensative to turning. This means that i BARLEY have to turn the wheel to the right to make the vibration/bumping sound. After about 15 minutes of driving like this, the sound is no longer sensative to very slight wheel turns to the right. I now have to make very hard/sharp turns to the right to make the sound happen.


So....
- Why is this strange sound so much more sensative to turning right after the car has sat for about (8-10 hours) in COLD weather? But after 15 minutes of driving, it's no long nearly as sensative as it was.

- Iv'e been told it could be the ball joint...but then that brings me back to the above question. Why is the sound so much more sensative to turning right after the car has sat for about (8-10 hours) in COLD weather.

<small>[ November 28, 2004, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Quick Sliver ]</small>

[DavidOS]

ball joint,
cv joint,
and worst case scenario check your lug nuts to make sure they are torqued on tight.

[DavidOS]

ball joint,
cv joint,
and worst case scenario check your lug nuts to make sure they are torqued on tight.

[mx3TT]

Yeah check your ball joint and make sure is ok. You do not want one of those breaking on you.

[quicksliver]

So if it is the ball joint then why would the sound be so much more sensative to turning right after the car has sat for about (8-10 hours) in COLD weather? Cause after driving for about 15 minutes it's not anywhere near as sensative to the wheel being turned to the right....you REALLY have to turn it sharp.

[celery952]

this sounds like it could be a failing wheel bearing or a cv joint you might wanna get these checked out as you could have a spectacular show

oh yeah and I dont reccomend turning really sharp to try to get it to do it just some advice

[Gro Harlem]

damn, sorry guys but I don't agree with anyone's suggestions so far about axles.

It could be balljoint tho, but doubtful.

Could be a sign of a bad STRUT MOUNT and thrust bearing (part of the strut mount). Also called strut bearing....if this goes bad (which is common if you lowered your car) it'll cause the car to pull one way after making a turn.

And a worn strutmount can cause sounds when going over bumpers & make the suspension feel vague.


But the mentioning of a difference with temperature leads me to believe its a worn wheel bearing. Jack the car up and test each wheel for play. Just jiggle it gently to see if it has any play at all and you'll know ur wheel bearing is focked. Strutmounts don't heat up as you drive as much as a wheel bearing...so definitely check that out

[quicksliver]

Well the wheel bearing is only 1yr old (It's an SKF). Earlier last week i jacked up the car and checked for wheel play...but it was solid as a rock!! :\

I've been driving with this ****ed up problem for over a year now and it sucks. Cause i ALWAYS have to take my right hand corners soooooo slow lol.

<small>[ December 01, 2004, 09:54 AM: Message edited by: Quick Sliver ]</small>

[Teal_93]

Are your tires balanced? Maybe you need a front end alignment? Just a thought.

[quicksliver]

Originally posted by Teal_93:
Are your tires balanced? Maybe you need a front end alignment? Just a thought.

Yes, tires are balanced. The alignment was fine, but it's getting worse. At high speeds it seems to pull harder and harder towards the left, and the driver side wheel feels like it's going to fall off lol.

[93SOHC]

I had a similar problem on an 83 Accord I used to have. I checked it all for wheel play and there was some play in the tierod, so I replaced it, aligned it, and as soon as I pulled out of the shop and turned, the balljoint snapped! Sometimes there is no play in the ball joint because its not loose, it frozen. thats what my expierence was, so don't right off the ball joint just because there is no play in the front end.

[quicksliver]

Well im going to bite the bullet and take it to Mazda this tuesday. Most likley i'll pay them just to tell me what part(s) need replaceing and then take the car to a real mechanic to do the work...since i ALWAYS seem to get raped at the dealership lol.

<small>[ December 09, 2004, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: Quick Sliver ]</small>

[jordan69]

i had a problem where my wheel bearing was shot, whenever i turned one direction it made the vibration/humming sound, and it made the car pull to one side too, you can check if its good or not by jacking the car up and giving the wheel a spin, if its hard to spin, then that might be your problem, and that would explain too why when its cold out it does it worse, cuz its not hot yet, but after your wheel is spinning for 15 min. it heats up the bearing and it quiets down, just a thought.

<small>[ December 09, 2004, 11:26 PM: Message edited by: Kokaneedude ]</small>

[quicksliver]

Yes but...I had my front driver side wheel bearing replaced with an SKF Wheel Bearing not even 40,000km's ago; can't be screwed already!

[quicksliver]

Well i took the car to Mazda today and had them check my car out. They found BOTH lower ball joints falling out and both of my front calipers & pins seized.

Does this mean i need to actaully replace the front calipers with new ones? Or is it possible to knock the sliders out, and throw some anti-seize on em'.