Engine Flush Myths + Transmission Oil

[millaj01]

Hey All,<p>I've been a lurker around the board for a while as I've been getting my '93 GS (K8, 113k miles) into better working order. I wanted to first off thank everyone who contributes to this forum as it's been immensely helpful! Thus far I've added PowerStop brake rotors as well as a PRM air intake (as of yesterday, it's fantastic).<p>In any case, I've got the ticking HLA issue that plagues the K8 and saw that an engine flush was one of the recommended/preventive maintanence items for this. In a conversation with a friend, I was under the impression that a typical oil-change place could perform this service. So, I went the local oil change place I've been going to for years and asked for one. I was told, "We don't do engine flushes here and we highly recommend against them. They'll take 10k miles off the life of your engine." My first reaction was to say "That's BS", but instead just left without having anything done.<p>So, my question is, why would they have such a negative attitude toward an engine flush as well as what have been anyone else's experience with this type of service, or products you have personally used? Also, my local mechanic had told me I could achieve the same effect as an engine flush more gradually my adding trans. fluid into my oil every so often. I was fairly skeptical of that approach, so I haven't done anything of the sort. Is there any merit at all to that idea?<p>Thanks in advance for any advice....

[lazzyie]

Engine flush= Get 3 cheap oil filters and 3 cheap quarts of oil. A 5 gallon can of kerosene.
-Drain oil, Replace with cheap filter, use 3 quarts kerosene 1 quart cheap oil.
-Turn car on, let idle for 5 minutes, DO NOT REV IT AT ALL!!
-repeat 2 more times
-let all the stuff drain out and use a good 90-95 Corvette ZR1 oil filter and 4 quarts of favorite oil
Cheap good engine flush
***You have to make sure to not rev the car!!!***<p>[ June 01, 2003: Message edited by: lazzyie ]</p>

[Hy300]

Also make sure that the car is warm before you do this (Engine temp level is right in the middle). This will prevent the engine from automatically running a high idle when you start it. If you want, you can adjust the idle air screw so that you run a really low idle so that the engine doesn't rev too much.

[mazdamaniac]

They are against it for liability reasons.
Too many "techs" left the flush in the motor and sent the owners on their merry way...

[JasonH]

An oil filter for the 90-95 Corvette ZR1 fits the MX-3?

[Gro Harlem]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by JasonH:
An oil filter for the 90-95 Corvette ZR1 fits the MX-3?<hr></blockquote><p>thats what i was about to say. Whats the part number for them (any brand)? <p>I know the Ford Festiva filters from the 1.3 SOHC fit the MX3 v6 as well, and are a larger diameter, but i didn't know any GM filters would fit.

[lazzyie]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by JasonH:
An oil filter for the 90-95 Corvette ZR1 fits the MX-3?<hr></blockquote><p>90-95 ZR1 oil filter fits the 1.8 v6 perfectly. Have to make sure it is a ZR1 oil filter. If you do a search you can find the part #'s

[SimonPK]

Fram 3985 works fine

[JasonH]

I'm guessing the Corvette filter is bigger than the stock GS filter? Is it big enough to make a difference when refilling the engine with oil?<p>I'll defintely pick one up for my next oil change.<p>Thanks for the info.

[Gro Harlem]

sweetness. I tell all the protege people to use the V6 filters on their 4 bangers since they are about 50% longer, but if this ZR1 filter fits, might as well use it!.<p>I snapped a pic of the 4 cyl VS 6 cylinder filter:<p>http://protegenetwork.org/host/car/protegeoilfilter.jpg

[jpwmx3]

I don't see the need to use a bigger oil filter for our car. It was designed with an adequate size one. If it wasn't, I wouldn't be running around right now with 357,000km on it and still feels like a new motor.

[millaj01]

Hey All,<p>I appreciate all the input and replies on the engine-flush subject. Sounds like I have nothing to worry about, provided I do the flush myself, or ensure that I have someone who knows what they're doing perform the flush.<p>I have one last question, as I guess I'm simply try to save myself a bit of hassle (I don't have as much time as I'd like to deal with it myself). I've found out that Uncle Ed's Oil Change places perform engine flushes with one of those Bilstein R-2000 machines. How safe/effective is that flush method, and does anyone have anything good or bad to say about it? I know it costs some bucks, but that's ok by me provided it does the job well.

[millaj01]

Just wanted to follow up on this. Since no one dissuaded me from the Bilstein R2000 route I went and had the machine flush done at Uncle Ed's for $80.<p>All I can say is that this procedure has made a TREMENDOUS difference in my engine. Honestly, it's as close to feeling 'new' as I can remember. Even though I had put a PRM air intake on it earlier, the engine was definitely feeling a bit tired. After the flush, the thing PULLS as it used to and acts like I remember. It's the peppy V6 I recall when I first test drove the thing (and more now due to the air intake). <p>Also, much to my surprise (but I suppose it makes sense) nearly a week or more after I had the flush done my engine oil is still fairly clear. Guess they weren't joking when they said it removed all the sludge and buildup. <p>So, in summary, I'd highly recommend the R-2000 route.

[jpwmx3]

I did the same thing last year and it helped with easier starts as well....

[Bri94GS]

I flushed my car yesterday and switched to Mobil 1 synthetic. I bought a quart of GUNK ENGINE FLUSH. All you have to do is add it to your engine (after the engine is warm, and has enough oil in it), let the car run for 5 minutes, and drain everything. It looks like the flush breaks down the oil or something, because it just comes out like water after the flush runs through. I usually jack my car up from the passenger side. After the oil drained, i then took the jack out and jacked up the driver's side to make sure all the oil was out (a little more did come out when i did this), then i took the filter off and I think i got most of the oil and crud out of the motor. If you get really ambitious, you can take off the oil pan and clean that too. After that, I just put the filter and drain plug back on, and filled it up with synthetic. When i started the car, the HLA's were still ticking and I noticed smoke coming out of my exhaust, but they both stopped after I drove it around for a while. I assume the smoke was just the remainder of the flush burning off. Haven't had any problems yet, and there is less ticking. I'll prob. change this oil before 3,000 just so I can get some 100% clean oil in there ASAP. Good luck.<p>P.S. Wal-Mart sells synthetic oil for decent prices. I got a 5-quart bucket of it for $15.88