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Thanks for the write-up, Ryan! I've got a rough idle going on, and have confirmed that cylinder 3 (it's a B6 SOHC) has 50 PSI, while the other 3 have 160-170. I added the oil, and there was no change to the compression, so it's obviously valves at fault. Now what? I'm not really sure where to go fro...

Holy cow, I'm glad I saw this thread! I've been hearing a bit of noise that I believe is valve related, and have been mentally preparing to "get around to it". I've been expecting valve adjustment like a bike's engine, but I'll be better armed after searching for that!

I have 4x114.3 bolt pattern wheels from my previous car I wanted to continue using, as well as wanting the flush look. I bought spacer/adapters that are 1 inch wide for all four tires. Personally, for my commuting/zipping around 50 kph curvy roads, I found the handling, ride smoothness, and body ro...

I have 4x114.3 bolt pattern wheels from my previous car I wanted to continue using, as well as wanting the flush look. I bought spacer/adapters that are 1 inch wide for all four tires. Personally, for my commuting/zipping around 50 kph curvy roads, I found the handling, ride smoothness, and body rol...

Those aussie "utes" look like they make a lot of sense. I fall into an area of truck saturation, and I don't quite need one. I just bought a roof rack for my wife's car ('07 VW Rabbit) so I can take plywood, drywall, etc home for renos. Worked perfectly! But those "utes"? As much...

Well, I had heat going to work today! Awfully nice. I think I'll keep topping it up after my commute til it stops taking any or until the reservoir starts getting fuller.

As far as I know, that only leaves me with a question of what to look for in the leak issue.

Holy cow, Ryan! You're fast. I was just out looking at things (you'd think I'd do that more often having a heated garage, but it's expensive to heat much above freezing! So I still don't do it much.) Anyway. No codes, in case that ever becomes relevant. I checked the coolant reservoir, and it's a bi...

I've finally been driving with it cold for long enough to figure out some of the habits of this problem. Last year, I could get warmish air as soon as the engine temp started up past the cold line. This year it's been terrible, and for most of it I attributed it to not being able to plug in the bloc...

Yeah, I got a new cover for mine at a wrecker. It changes stock completely every couple of months, so it's worth checking every now and then.

Thanks Ryan. Just got my "new" distributor in and she's running fine again. (minus the usual low compression on a cylinder. )

I broke my key once - dismantled the passenger door to pull the lock out. It has a code number that a locksmith can use to make a key for it from scratch. Cost me $5-10.

Alright! Oh, one thing I forgot to mention. When it WAS running, (last month when it mysteriously decided to run again) the spark out of the ignition coil was mostly orange with a bit of blue. I suppose it could have been a weakened battery from starting it for a week with no recharge.... But I'm th...

Ryan wrote:Oh, I'm sorry. I assumed you were running the v6 motor....

I wish!

Plug on the distributor... = The electrical connector?

Thanks for the quick reply! I'm guessing T0T57071 is the part number? Hehe... I was eyeballing the rotor-type thing that swipes past the magnet. I'll be in Edmonton next weekend, so I'll hit the Pick'n'Pull and grab one. There's not a lot of variation between them is there? As long as I grab a pre-9...

So, my car spontaneously decided to quit. Ran fine just before, but now it won't start. Cranks strongly. Battery terminals have good connection. No spark from ignition coil. Connector going to it gets the proper voltage, though. No CEL, but tried pulling codes anyway - I get code 2. Checked voltages...