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It has been alot of work but it will be worth it in the end. On the east coast it's almost impossible to find any car this old without a decent amount of rust unless it has lived in a garage. I'm not sure if you can tell, but we used old fenders from my donor car to repair the quarters. It gave us t...

Since it's almost ready for the road again, I thought I should finally start a worklog for my 93 Mazda Mx-3 GS. I bought it back in 2008 with the original 1.8L v6 and auto intact. Other than fixing a few minor issues, the only things done to it were find a better interior and upgrade the stereo. htt...

You are going to need to swap for the 2 coolant sensors, either tap a new hole or swap over from your k8. Since it's a 95, chances are it's obd2, meaning you might have to swap over some of your k8 sensors that are different and find an obd1 ecu. The best thing to do is look at both engines and figu...

You can just follow the wiring from the transmission, more than likely there is corrosion or damage to the wires. If you could specify what engine/trans you have we can tell you which wires to check. If you did tap into a fuse, then you'd either need a switch to manually turn them on and off or fab ...

Compression for a KLZE is supposed to be 225 psi, although your numbers are low, they are relatively even. That just means that the engine is starting to show its age, but it will soon be time for a rebuild. It might be a good idea to try adding a bit of oil down the cylinders to see if the numbers ...

The list is just about the same whether you swap in a v6 or a 4 cyl. You'll need the obvious things like clutch assembly, trans, axles, pedal assembly, shifter linkage, the center console and you can reuse your old flywheel but it might be a good idea to have it resurfaced. I'm not sure if the 4 cyl...

I'm pretty sure mine came with a manual crank, I know proteges with the power sunroof had them as well. IIRC they are basically a large allen key that you'll see after you drop the switch from the roof liner.

It sounds like a possible issue with the vaf or maybe the ignition timing is off a little at your disty. Check for any cracks in your intake and if that doesnt help loosen the disty bolts a bit and see if advancing it a bit helps with the bogging.

It didn't have anything to do with either, all the wiring that needed to be done was correct. The causes were just some corrosion in the fuel pump connector and an old remote starter messing with the ignition, but now it's all fixed and running perfect.

My uncle has a trigger start system you can clip on to trigger the starter or just bump it with a screwdriver the old fashion way on the contacts. As far as the clutch switch, the wires were reading correctly off the atx harness so it wasnt that causing the no start problem. Anyway, I fixed the prob...

I just finished swapping atx to mtx and k8 to KLZE and the car will not crank with the key, but I can bump it with the starter manually. I am using a KL36 ecu and spark is good, timing is on the marks, but not getting any life out of the fuel pump. I checked the pump connectors with a trouble light ...

The most practical way I could think of for the duct work is to run it inside the inner fender then straight down behind the strut assembly, but I doubt you'd get much air flow unless you added a small fan to boost the air pressure.

You might have a clearance issue because your pic is from a rwd car with the tie rods and steering in front which is less cramped than having an axle and steering coming into the spindle from the rear. Unless you are running a larger diameter rim like 16" or 17", I think its going to be a ...

It sounds like you might have a problem with your vent tube from the tank, so the air isnt escaping as fast as the gas is pumping in so it is causing an air void that can only escape through the filler neck. Its just like pouring out a bottle, if you turn it completely upside down, it'll chug to emp...

Sounds like a bad ground, the shut down with not much warning and just getting a click even when trying to jump the car points to a break or loose/corroded wire. Check your battery and alternator cables and any chassis grounds for any obvious signs. Clean any corrosion off and hook them back up and ...