MX-3.com

I see you know the way of electrons.

Emissions where you roll?

If not, buy egay headers ($150) and have a shop build a system for you ($300) and buy a decent muff ($100) and you're golden.

At least, thats what I did, and I'm happy.

Does it smoke more in the morning on startup or when you overrun it (WOT to 0 throttle) or under power?

If it smokes under any of those conditions it points to a specific problem.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk82/RyanThomsonRyan/photo_zps2574f2ea.jpg Took it into town to fill the tank up for the rest of winter to avoid rust (problem I recently discovered in winter car) Almost died. bald summer only tires on the roads here... was interesting. No traction in 5th from 40...

This thread has no purpose. No value.

I can't even bear to fully read the posts.

There is no science in here, just speculation stacked on speculation.

Also a disheartening amount of ricer math.

Due to the high levels of emotion in here without anything solid, I'm locking it.

+1 don't bother with knock sensor. Its for extreme limit OEM tune. MS is not on par with that.

You can use all of your stock sensors but you need to add an IAT for the speed density calculations.

Nay. The harnesses are totally different. Male/female switched on half the plugs, ECU location further from the rest of the bits than Mx-3, general routing not the same as MX-3... etc etc.. Although BS about the ECU's there. People swap KL ecu's in for KL engines. Probe ones work just the same as MX...

Our front wheel bearings aren't tapers?

If they are tapers, the axle nut pre tensions the bearing and holds it together, running without a stub in there will cause the hub to just fall out of the spindle.

If they're straight roller/ball... then no stub required.

Just finished my last exam. Read this for shits. Although this was a huge learning process for me, I don't see anything I effed up terribly! The ideas are pretty bang on, except maybe the oil cooler thing is not worth the time. Unless you're bouncing off the pump knockoff pressure, there are no gain...

Rant:

Come back to a happy place after a long hiatus, and I haven't yet clicked on a thread with something new and exciting. Just a bunch of shitty forum politics.

Anything?

Anywhere?

I'm still here... lurking, until I finally have time to build a sweet a-- mofo Kliata. I'm not leaving. Meanwhile, I build and drive this car, with another fantastic group of people... https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/525489_10151987524506758_1561084911_n.jpg https://fbcdn-spho...

I'm next on the UDP if MM doesn't take it.

Just email me instead, I don't check in here too often anymore. ryan dot thomson dot mx at gmail dot com.

A compression test would be a good place to start. You can also visually inspect the front and rear engine mounts. If they've decayed enough they won't stop the engine from moving like they're supposed to.

The stock idle spec is somewhere around 700 RPM IIRC

I wasn't being sarcastic! I mean when you do it like I did in the writeup the crank pulley doesn't want to line up exactly, you could bump it either way and still be close, you bumped it the correct way.

Unequal length headers will make it sound gnarly, and you change the torque compliment due to secondary scavanging. Check out the KL SAE papers, it briefly mentions the effects of secondary length.