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I'm guessing you'll need:
vacuum chambers
check valve
VRIS valves
VRIS solenoids
brackets and bolts

All of this stuff will be found on the K8 manifold and can be moved over to your ZE manifold. There is probably plenty of photos too, but this link will provide the K8 manual diagrams.

Good luck.

Pics of awr front and rear mounts from another person's worklog at this link. The rear one is the one with the wider, shorter base.

I'm feeling kinda silly about the long reply earlier. Obviously you've figured out the answer: Yes you can use the KLDE vacuum chambers. You can also use any check valve. Just make sure the check valve only allows air to flow into the manifold and restricts air from flowing into the vacuum chambers.

Oh - with that additional information it may be a sticky hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA). The HLAs depend on oil pressure filling them up through some tiny passages. If you don’t change oil often or maybe let the car sit for a long period those tiny passages could become clogged. You would end up with...

I should have added that any check valve that fits between the vacuum line will work. Also you can fix your check valve by retrieving the nipple from the vacuum line and using epoxy to connect it to the check valve.

K engines use hydraulic lifters that automatically adjust (assuming they are not gunked up and fill with oil). There is no adjusting for valve clearance like with solid lifters. I doubt you have a bad lifter. More likely - given the location of the noise you have a bad friction gear spring. I think ...

If your first picture is how the vacuum lines are set up on your car then you were not using the vacuum chambers. The cap in your first picture should be a vacuum line that would connect to the VRIS valves (though first to the electrical vacuum switches). I'm not sure what your car is using for a va...

I do not have HKS v belts. If you have a show car or just want to dress up the engine compartment then go ahead and use these. They do look good. These belts are made of superior materials. However, you will not be able to measure any improvement to performance or reliability over the life of your c...

You should start your own thread. Now that I feel better for saying that I can tell you that the starter trick works every time. If it doesn't it won't hurt anything. For removing the crank pulley you must use a puller. You can rent them from a tool rental place or auto parts store.. It uses two bol...

The online manual is excellent. Here are 2 additional links that will help with some pictures and a guide to specific timing belt set up. http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=53392 http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=77978 Take your time and ask more questions if you g...

^ makes sense. The ECU normally only uses the knock sensor to retard timing if it thinks the engine is knocking. The ECU probably treats an open (effectively unplugged) knock sensor the same as a knocking engine. The knock sensor provides protection, but does not enhance engine performance.

Kind of a trick question. The marks are not on the cam shaft itself, but on the helical gears on the front of each cam shaft and the timing belt pulleys that you attach to 2 of the cam shafts. But, I agree that there is no one easy place to answer your question. Bottom line is two sets of marks must...

Sounds like your fuel lines are connected correctly. Fuel pump -> fuel filter -> fuel rail nearest throttle body (back, nearest firewall or right side of engine) Fuel return is on the rail with the fuel pressure regulator (looks like a hat with vacuum connection) If spark is not coming at the right ...

Kudos on the 326. You've done some amazing things and it was fun to glance through your worklog. What can anyone offer in terms of advice for a new clutch on your unique car? All I can say is that I have a South Bend clutch - specifically a Rally series stage 1 that I don't think is sold anymore. Ho...

If you were burning that much oil that engine was also low on compression. Even with the DE pistons you'll likely end up with higher compression compared to before you broke this engine down. I'm assume you did not break that engine down because you were simply losing oil (leaks). If you were burnin...