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My preference is to install a professionally rebuilt pump. These tend to last a long time so even a low mileage used one with no signs of leaking would be a good idea. I understand that there is some honor and cost saving to rebuilding yours, but that would be my last choice. If you don't rebuild th...

I think I was able to get to the pressure line banjo bolt from above with a long extension. Most of the work is from below and through the passenger tire / wheel well. 1. Raise and support the vehicle. 2. Remove the passenger side front tire. 3. Remove the passenger side splash shield. 4. I think it...

I did this a couple years ago. It wasn't that bad. My pump was making grinding noises so I thought the pump was bad. Normally you remove the pulley before you remove the pump. The grinding noises were because the pulley had stripped on the pump shaft. So removing the pulley was not possible in the c...

You are doing exhaust and intake work while your fuel consumption is 13l/100km? The car and engine you have should be 9l/100km or better. Idle should be 650 - 700 rpm and will help fuel consumption. If alignment, wheel bearings and brakes are good then try a tune up. Besides replacing ignition parts...

If you don't fabricate a bracket that holds the cable further from the throttle body you can shorten the cable and add new cable stops.

Dorman 03339 offers an assortment - one should work
Dorman 100013 from RockAuto would probably work

^ I'm with them. It's a little inconvenient since you'll have to reassemble the steering knuckle to the strut, ball joint, outer tie rod - depending on what you disassembled to remove the axles, transmission and motor. But the car should then roll around fine and will be lighter too. Good luck with ...

Have you put a stethoscope up to the transmission and isolated the source of the sound to the transmission? Many of the other symptoms you describe could be wheel bearings. If those are already replaced - I did not see that in the last several posts. I think you've mostly replaced worn out parts so ...

I couldn't find cross reference to aftermarket parts but here are the Mazda part numbers: Carrier bearing: 9960682064 Dust shield (wheel side) G56025742 Dust shield (tranny side) G56025744 I'm betting those are pressed into the carrier bracket and held by a retaining ring. From an online Mazda parts...

Welcome to the forum. I'm glad it has helped you. I hope you have found the online manuals. Even though they are for the K8 99% will also apply to all K series motors - especially the fuel and emissions troubleshooting section. Find the manuals here . Definitely pull codes. Procedure is in the manua...

Unless you are rebuilding this engine don’t change the oil pump. An OEM pump is recommended if you do replace it. Oil pumps are not failure prone and usually last the life of the engine. No one would change their oil pump just because they were changing the timing belt and components. Really it soun...

Where would someone pick up this fine door? I am in need of one since a small dent was put into mine.
Sorry to hear that your MX3 is gone to another owner. Hope it is good hands. Thanks.

Davemac, thank you for the detailed reply and advice. Just curious... If the master goes, shouldn't I see some kind of leakage inside the car? I'll swap them both out as soon as I can. Thanks again! Clutch master and brake master cylinders have 2 seals - one at the front of the piston and one at th...

MrMazda though confused about brake versus clutch assumes there is air in the line. You should check for that by bleeding the slave clutch cylinder on the front of the trans. You assume either the clutch master or slave seal is shot. I agree. Good news is that the MX3 clutch master and slave can be ...

I believe you'll get about 500 rpm reduction if you can find a mx6 or 626 tranny. You'll see here and at other sites some info on more exotic swaps, but the above is the easy route. Personally I had a smooth shifting mx3 tranny and chose to just replace the 5th gear set. FWIW I gained a 300 rpm redu...

Another vote for wheel bearing. By the time you can feel play the bearing is really shot. But this could also be a busted belt inside a tire - not always obvious by looking. Troubleshoot tips: Test for a bad tire by using your spare. Replace one tire at a time with your spare and then test drive to ...