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ok I found the problem after replacing the IAC/ t/b (thx for the deal daninski), the intake boot had a nice hidden crack in it. The first rib from where it connects to the vam had a crack right at the base of the raised rib where it was nice and out of sight. It must have been open just enough when ...

the g series fill plug is the speedo sensor hole. the drain is on the bottom of the trans.

an air bubble can cause this issue as well as severly burnt brake fluid in the clutch line/slave.

yeah I was checking out ur profile before, I am also going to be looking at a klze swap and I might hit ya up for some info once I get it all gathered together for the swap. I should also mention that the engine is fully warmed up when the idle goes jumpy on me. If I do a cold start it just wants to...

I would like the complete throttle body including the IAC and tps but I would settle just for a good functional IAC for the v6. pm me price + shipping if required to;
Bay13, 5815
40th st SE
Calgary, AB
T2C2H6

ok first let me start off by saying that I have researched the IAC issues many people face and I have throughly cleaned mine and here is what I am finding. When its warmer out say between -10 and up degrees celsius the idle works just fine, no problems it just starts high (@2000 rpm) and then drops ...

sorry I could not make it, by the time I got out of work and put my son to bed it was to late for me to venture out. I also had to finish my hideaway strobe set on the mx3. I will hopefully be able to make it for the next one though.

they are on ebay now and damn expensive to. Nearly double what was quoted. http://cgi.ebay.ca/92-96-MAZDA-MX3-BLACK-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-93-94-95_W0QQitemZ190280749887QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item190280749887&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1215|66%3A2|6...

they are nice but are damn near $600 cdn to get into canada, not worth it in my opinion. I like them but not for the price of a scrap mx3 lol.

if its anything like my block heater its located behind the rear header and the cord almost touches off it. I had to wrap mine in heat tape and secure it with zip ties to keep it off the header and prevent my cord from being kinked. Piss poor place to put one if you ask me. Anyhow might of melted th...

the reverse sensor is located bottom of the trans has 2 wires connected to it. It unplugs and unscrews from the transmission. Use a multimeter first on continuity test once unplugged. With the trans in N you should not have any continuity between the 2 contacts and in R you should have continuity. T...

almost all fog lights come with the wiring required such as relays and switches/fuses. Just remember that when tapping into wiring use proper wiring not farmer wiring or ghetto wiring. Piggyback fuses are available to use for tapping into a single fuse holder and using it to supply 2 fuses (1 for th...

well I would get the codes first see what is coming up. Use a paper clip jump pins 10 and pin ground in the diagnostic connector and count the check engine light flashes with the key in the on position do not start the car. Next when the car is idling 14.2 volts is good at the battery. I would start...

obd2 was mid 95-96+ and only in canada, not in the US. To check there will be an obd2 port on the passenger side under the dash, if its not there then ur obd1. Mine is obd2 and I have a similar problem with no codes at all on mine.

I am having somewhat of an idle issue myself, the idle air control is located underneath the throttle body. My problem is that I can get thar car to idle with no issues sometimes and then others it idles up to 1500 rpm and then bounces down to 1000 and back up again. My throttlebody was pretty dirty...