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 Anyone have experience with Prostart products? 
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Post Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
I installed a prostart ct-3271 and an idatalink ADS-TB transponder bypass in my mother's 05 Sentra.

It took forever (this prostart doesn't handle the pre-built interface cable between it and the bypass, took a long time to figure that out).

There is no factory alarm (arm/disarm on prostart is not connected)

I am not using the prostart FOB to lock/unlock factory power locks (prostart lock/unlock disconnected)

I am not using the prostart FOB to pop the factory trunk release (the only acc. I'm using on the prostart is the one for in the ignition column to run the blower motor)

I used my own relay clutch bypass using the prostart's ground-out when running.

Now, it works fine, but her battery dies overnight. I've been working on this for a lot of hours already (think >15) and I just want to set the whole thing on fire.

Any ideas what might be causing the battery drain? I think her battery is simply weak anyway, It won't handle 30s of cranking, (broken up in 8s intervals by the prostart) wheras my winter beater MX can probably do 2-3 minutes.

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January 03 2012, 10:22 AM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
No idea what your doing here and it sounds,,,labourous however my experience with batteries is 5-7 years life max. If you can force the caps off the battery it may just need a little demineralized water in the cells to bring it back to spec. Good Luck

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January 03 2012, 1:11 PM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
First, is the remote starter designed for a manual?

You have your hoodpin hooked up? Does the car have a factory one that you tapped into? (My Xterra had one)
Ya, sucks that the date cable doesn't work, it almost never does, great idea, would save so much work and wiring, but nope, it's almost pointless.

Not sure what you're talking about for the clutch bypass relay. It should only be engaged when starting. Have you checked to see if it's not engaged when the vehicle is off?

I'm wondering if because the locks aren't hooked up, that it's not doing to sleep, but I've never heard of that.

I would try, while the ProStart is still wired in, is hooking up an amp-meter in line from the battery, and start pulling fuses one by one, see if you can find where your power is being taken, should sit about 0.01amps when sleeping (my Xterra takes 45min to sleep), but you should still find one, or more, that will cause it to drop back to normal. Once you've isolated the circuits, try to see if you get a drop when unplugging the ProStart, see if it's a coincidence with a car's system that's causing the draw, or the ProStart is causing a draw in a system, or if it's a ProStart that's doing the draw in itself (bad relays happen often enough in ProStarts)

If the car sleeps down to 0.01 amps with everything intact, it's the battery.

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January 03 2012, 7:24 PM
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Hey is the 'highknee' closed for the Holidays,,,no pictures? :lol:

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January 03 2012, 8:20 PM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
It's on vacation :P

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January 03 2012, 8:37 PM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
Nd4SpdSe wrote:
First, is the remote starter designed for a manual?

Both, cut little wire loop for ATX mode.

You have your hoodpin hooked up? Does the car have a factory one that you tapped into? (My Xterra had one)
Ya, sucks that the date cable doesn't work, it almost never does, great idea, would save so much work and wiring, but nope, it's almost pointless.

Yes, way past that, its all programmed and starting the car already.

Not sure what you're talking about for the clutch bypass relay. It should only be engaged when starting. Have you checked to see if it's not engaged when the vehicle is off?

Bypass relay needed because car does not start without clutch switch signal. Wired in my own bypassing relay and it works fine, only engages when the pro-start's ground-out-when-running signal fires (1.5s before start, end ends once key is re-inserted or the module times out)

I'm wondering if because the locks aren't hooked up, that it's not doing to sleep, but I've never heard of that.

Nope, no sleepy. Car is fairly simple

I would try, while the ProStart is still wired in, is hooking up an amp-meter in line from the battery, and start pulling fuses one by one, see if you can find where your power is being taken, should sit about 0.01amps when sleeping (my Xterra takes 45min to sleep), but you should still find one, or more, that will cause it to drop back to normal. Once you've isolated the circuits, try to see if you get a drop when unplugging the ProStart, see if it's a coincidence with a car's system that's causing the draw, or the ProStart is causing a draw in a system, or if it's a ProStart that's doing the draw in itself (bad relays happen often enough in ProStarts)

Tried reading draw, my multimeter is whacked. Reads 0 all the time. I'll do it properly yet. Car does not die if I pull all 3 prostart fuses and disconnect the two accessory type plugs. May have narrowed it down to one connector, but one example isn't enough to draw a conclusion in this case, since all of the battery-death evidence points in different directions as far as bad wiring goes.

If the car sleeps down to 0.01 amps with everything intact, it's the battery.

I have a few batteries to try if they fit in her tray. Worth a shot at least, I have 3, only need 1.


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Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
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January 04 2012, 12:35 AM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
Ryan wrote:
Yes, way past that, its all programmed and starting the car already.

Asking for wiring sake, if the car already had one that you tapped into, or if you have to install your own. Not all cars have a factory hood pin.

Ryan wrote:
Bypass relay needed because car does not start without clutch switch signal. Wired in my own bypassing relay and it works fine, only engages when the pro-start's ground-out-when-running signal fires (1.5s before start, end ends once key is re-inserted or the module times out)

Isn't there a specific line for triggering the clutch bypass other than the GOWR?

Ryan wrote:
Nope, no sleepy. Car is fairly simple

Should, most newish cars have modules that fall asleep. My Xterra is a generation behind your Altima (Everything You Need, Nothing You Don't) and it has the body control module that falls asleep after 45 minutes. The 2nd Gen (05+) had a BCM that's way more involved than mine which I'm glad I don't have, heh. I worked on a few Fords, (there's a Focus that comes to mind) where the door lock module falls asleep after a while, dozen or do minutes I believe, where the remote locks triggered by the remote starter don't work when it's sleeping that that you need to trigger it to wake up before sending the unlock pulse.

Ryan wrote:
Tried reading draw, my multimeter is whacked. Reads 0 all the time. I'll do it properly yet. Car does not die if I pull all 3 prostart fuses and disconnect the two accessory type plugs. May have narrowed it down to one connector, but one example isn't enough to draw a conclusion in this case, since all of the battery-death evidence points in different directions as far as bad wiring goes.

Something's not right there. Some multimeters you have to move the positive lead over for using it as an amp meter. Remember too that it had to be inline, so you have disconnect the main power line on the battery for chassis power and put the meter in between, just don't start the car cause obvious you'll blow the fuse in the meter, heh.

Disconnecting the fuses and waiting in the morning isn't an convinient and easy way to test for a draw. Reason for doing the amperage test with the ProStart (and fuses) in is to see if it's a system that's being affected by the ProStart, or the ProStart itself. All we know if could be a system that's being kept awake by the ProStart for whatever reason, and pulling the fuses on the ProStart of course would show to indicate the unit itself, but it would help you trace back to what system is being affected and where to look on the ProStart. Than from there you can see if the draw drops on that system when the fuse is pulled from the ProStart. It's hard to say exactly without a starting point.

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2004 Mazda RX-8 GT - Renesis Wankel : LS3 Coils, BHR Mid-Pipe + Falken RT-615K 245/40r18
2011 Mazda Mazda2 GS - 1.5L Manual : Yozora Edition (1 of 500)
2003 Nissan Xterra SE - 4x4 Supercharged : 2" Body Lift, 4" Suspension Lift & 33" MTR Kevlar
2001 Nissan Frontier SE - The Frontrailer : Expedition/Off-Road Trailer Project


January 04 2012, 1:53 AM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
I have a prostart 2in1 I was considering installing but yikes this whole remote start business seems to be beyond me.

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January 04 2012, 3:45 AM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
Nd4SpdSe wrote:
Asking for wiring sake, if the car already had one that you tapped into, or if you have to install your own. Not all cars have a factory hood pin.


Wired in my own, and it works fine.

Nd4SpdSe wrote:
Isn't there a specific line for triggering the clutch bypass other than the GOWR?

There is, if you buy their relay kit. But why would I do that? This works just fine.

Nd4SpdSe wrote:
Should, most newish cars have modules that fall asleep. My Xterra is a generation behind your Altima (Everything You Need, Nothing You Don't) and it has the body control module that falls asleep after 45 minutes. The 2nd Gen (05+) had a BCM that's way more involved than mine which I'm glad I don't have, heh. I worked on a few Fords, (there's a Focus that comes to mind) where the door lock module falls asleep after a while, dozen or do minutes I believe, where the remote locks triggered by the remote starter don't work when it's sleeping that that you need to trigger it to wake up before sending the unlock pulse.

Alright, even if it does, the only issue would be that it isn't sleeping, but there is nothing mechanically different about the car with the prostart installed. It only monitors door signals. Remember, the system works, the car remote starts.


Nd4SpdSe wrote:
Something's not right there. Some multimeters you have to move the positive lead over for using it as an amp meter. Remember too that it had to be inline, so you have disconnect the main power line on the battery for chassis power and put the meter in between, just don't start the car cause obvious you'll blow the fuse in the meter, heh.

I do know how to use my multimeter, the second port is for double-digit amperage draw.

Nd4SpdSe wrote:
Disconnecting the fuses and waiting in the morning isn't an convinient and easy way to test for a draw. Reason for doing the amperage test with the ProStart (and fuses) in is to see if it's a system that's being affected by the ProStart, or the ProStart itself. All we know if could be a system that's being kept awake by the ProStart for whatever reason, and pulling the fuses on the ProStart of course would show to indicate the unit itself, but it would help you trace back to what system is being affected and where to look on the ProStart. Than from there you can see if the draw drops on that system when the fuse is pulled from the ProStart. It's hard to say exactly without a starting point.


You're spot on there. It wasn't so much of a test as a guarantee. The car needs to be reliable. It was before, so disconnecting the POS entirely seemed like a good option.

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Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
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1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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January 04 2012, 9:53 AM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
Double check your relay to make sure it isn't always open. Common mistake I have done a time or two. If so reverse polarity add another relay etc....

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January 19 2012, 1:58 AM
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Post Re: Anyone have experience with Prostart products?
I've basically had it with that pile.

I'll check the relay, but I'm at the point where I'm going to remove it, diode everything, and reassemble.

But in spring, its now in the -30's.

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Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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January 19 2012, 11:24 AM
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