Swift Springs

First installment has arrived. That was quick work MFactory,

Part Number: Z65-203-050
Spring Rate: 5 kgf/mm 280 lbs/inch
Usable Stroke: 126m / 4.96 inch
Max Stroke: 133.2mm / 5.24 inch
Max Load: 666 kgf / 1468 lbs

Part Number: Z65-228-040
Spring Rate: 4kgf/mm 224 lbs/inch
Usable Stroke: 98m / 4 inch
Max Stroke: 158.7mm / 6.25inch
Max Load: 634.8 kgf / 1399lbs


Stock Eunos Presso Spring rates (EC8S)are;
Front: 3.07kgf/mm (or 172lbs/in)
Rear: 1.87kgf/mm (or 104lbs/in)

The Mazdaspeed (Eibach NOT Pro-Kit) BG road spring was;
Front: 3.3kgf/mm
Rear: 2.2kgf/mm

The HR Springs for the Eunos Presso etc are;
Front: 3.93kgf/mm
Rear: 3.21kgf/mm

I have over time run thePresso with all of the above springs and all with the Koni Adjustable strut insert upgrade and the MS Eibach and HR springs with a Whiteline (solid) rear sway bar.

YCW Reference Coilover for BG Chassis (a bulk buy run by MFactory off the Club Protege site)











Bought to replace my second hand Aragosta Suspension Systems Coilovers (S Type for the Mazda BG8Z Familia GT-R)

Running 200mm long /6 kgf/mm springs in front and 250mm long /5 kgf/mm in rear. They are 12 way adjustable and are set up to allow a 40mm drop on OEM ride height.

The front strut to hub mounting is too wide for the Mazda Lantis BAEP V6 front hubs I have fitted up (5 stud conversion). So use a shimmed mounting system to take up the gap. Not good.

Very high quality set. Inverted 55mm damper running in a 60mm tube. Need a rebuild to be perfect.







The front spring part number is 200.65.060.25.

Roughly that means 200mm long, 65 mm internal diameter with a 6 kfg/mm rating.

Some (long) time ago I purchased a nice MS Spoiler (painted in red naturally) but made the rookie mistake of not taking the complete hatch (which was obviously already pre drilled and came with the garnish trim).

By a stroke of luck I was able to make up for my mistake (some long time later) and pick up a complete hatch (painted in black of course) which had already been robbed of its MS Spoiler.

They only worry now is that I wont live long enough to get everything in one place, fitted and painted so that I can complete the project!!

Trying it on for size LOL. Now all I have to do is get the spoiler and the hatch in the same place and fit them together. The hatch is being stored elsewhere and I have not had a spare weekend yet, to go and get it. I will have both parts repainted first in the Eunos Red.

You've been busy no doubt. That spoiler looks a little,,,monolithic for me but will probably look sweet once you get it mounted right. Good job.

loving that suspension setup!

I have been sitting on a full set of new Mazdaspeed engine mounts (4) for the Touring Kit A-spec for The Eunos Presso since about 2006. I installed 2 of the mounts (OEM mount # 3 and #4) sometime back (a long time ago if I really think about it) together with two AWR Racing mounts (OEM mount #1 and #2) in 88 duro.

The AWR mounts were in place of the two A-Spec mounts (#1 and #2) which are rated at 60 duro. The A-spec #3 and #4 are rated at 70 duro. The step up from 60 to 88 seemed like a good idea at the time.

I have regretted the 88 duro choice ever since. The AWR and A-spec combo was just too stiff and transferred too much engine vibration into the chassis.

So I finally decided to do something about it. I decided the best option was to get two sets of 70 duro AWR bushes and swap the original 88 duro set out.

Well that was the plan.





The problem with doing this is that the bolt holding #1 mount (the rear one) is impossible to remove without a lot of drama to drop the engine/transaxle down far enough to get clearance to pull the bolt out of the mount.

The "best" way in my opinion is to cut the head off the mounting bolt and replace it. I use the new bolt with the head of the bolt sitting on the gear shift lever side. I grind a flat on the nut so that it sits against the "stop" in the same place and way as the orginal fitting. With a bit of care it can be done with a cut off wheel mounted on a 100mm or 115mm angle grinder.

I had a couple of replacement bolts tucked away in the spares box. I didnt use the one in the photo as it was about 10mm too long. I had another one which was an exact match with the one I had to destroy to remove it.

Showing the rear (#1) mount.









Then I settled on a different plan. I thought I would try using the full A-spec mount set. After all two of the A-spec mounts (#1 and #2) had been sitting in a box for far too long (my guess is about 12 years).

Blue dot on the new looking mounts (right of picture) = the Mazdaspeed version.









I will see how that works out for me.

So now I have an AWR mount set (well at least # 1 and 2) in either 88 or 70 duro that I can use on the other Presso project. It wont be a Sunday driver and will probably need the extra stiffness.

I meant to add to the update.

The equivalent engine mount parts for the V6 version of Touring Kit A-spec for the MX-6 (2.5L???) uses duros of (#1 to #4 respectively) of 70, 70, 75 and 75.

That suggests the AWR mounts (#1 and #2) at 70 duro would be all good for a Eunos Presso + KLZE. So time will tell. No problem as they are easy to swap over once the #1 mount bolt issue is fixed.

I also installed these. Also parts that have been sitting unused for too long.

http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showth ... highlight=

Not my Photos. They were stolen from the above thread.

I love how you keep this treat up to date !

you are doing so much in terms of suspension & handling... is it up to your standard now?

For the "passion Rose" mica one yes!!! I am just trying to undo the dumb stuff modifications I have made in the past. 88 duro engine mounts are a "dumb stuff" modification for this particular car.

Chris

Much better, in fact much much better.

Thats my view anyway. Based on a short but hard drive,.

On to the next problem, I have been chasing a "developing" engine "miss" problem for ages. I am on MSPNP2 (no VAF but with Wasted Spark).

I suspected an injector problem but did the whole ignition and fuel system diagnosis process (replaced the coil pack, pump and relay) and gave the mSPNP2 the benefit of my inexpert attention.

It has been getting worse over time. I think I have nailed it down to the injector on cylinder "six".

Engine running on 5 cylinders only. Spark plugs removed and shown set out as follows;

Spark plugs... Left to right (bottom of picture) in order # 5, 3 and 1. All show acceptable grayish white insulator.

Spark plugs... Left to right (top of picture) in order #6, 4 and 2. Spark plug #2 and #4 look like they are running lean while #6 has been having a soot party.

In Mazda OEM speak the plugs are arranged as you would find them fitted to the engine and front of the engine would be to the right of the picture .

So fuel enters the fuel rail at #5 and flows left to right through the rail to #1 and then to the other fuel rail flowing from #2 and out past #6 to the FPR and back to the Fuel tank.




Close up of #6, 4 and 2.



My guess is that #6 injector is staying open more that it should (flowing a lot of unmetered fuel) and #4 and #2 are showing the effects of that.

So injector #6 has failed. Anybody have a view on that deduction?

Tested the spark to Cylinder #6. Big fat hot spark shown in the tester while the engine was running. That was enough for me. Swapped out the in-place fuel rails as a set.

Swapped in the fuel rail set that were fitted to the original MX-6 engine (KLZE straight neck). The set has been sitting on the shelf unused since about 2005. Added some bling with a full set of chromed bolts to hold down the plastic fuel rail caps.

Replaced the plug in #6 with a new one.

Started it up. Sweet!!! problem fixed nice clean idle and pulls cleanly under load. Lesson learned. Never discount the dud injector scenario. That engine hasn't run that well for a little while.

want to try this;

1989 1990 1991 FC3S Mazda Rx7 Master Power Window Switch F06166350A.

Its almost a twin for the bargin bin JDM Eunos Presso standard fit out.







What did the North American or European market get?