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 what rpm's do you shift at 
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Joined: June 19 2004, 2:01 AM
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Location: El Paso Tx U.S
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engine was a de running 15.1

im sure it was a good engine

friends ze was one from corksport.

lasted like 3 months at that pace.

Post whenever your engine blows.

Check specs for ze.. no power at that rpm.

try racing at 3000 feet.

mazdaspeedmx_3 wrote:
my engine still purrs like a kitten not a single knock or anything
should i ask duncan how many miles were on his engine or should i ask duncan how well the engine was maintained

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MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!


October 04 2006, 10:22 PM
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i hate when ppl say theres no power up there well when i got my pgt dyno tuned with klze intake manifold high flow cat and intake my peak horse power was at 6500. but i revved it up to 8000(on the tach - inaccurate i know) first, 7500 2nd , 6800 in third unless it was close than id hold it out but the k series motors are reliable at high rpms. as mine had 280000 on it when the motor went(rod). but to shift at ur peak horsepower is loosing u power as the dropoff isnt as fast as u guys r saying. there was more power at 7500 then at 4000 if i changed gears out of first at 6500-6700. the idea is to change gears when the power of the dropoff equals the power of the next gear ur changing into.y would u shift at ur peak hp 6500 ish(164hp crank) when u catch the gear below vris wind first and second up u shouldnt be changing out of 2nd under 100 km/h 3rd not as long as the drop off is more noticeable and as u catch 4th which in my car was closely spaced to 3rd the torque pulls it nicely and its in its powerband cause its so shortly geared between the 2. and my pgt i had it buried at 240 revving just over 7500 in 5th a few times and i had 5th up to 7000 a few more times, the motor will last, just keep it in its powerband. it seems to be the older guys who r used to muscle cars with 5-6000 redlines who dont like to go near 7000. i raced a modded pgt (i/e)when mine was stock and because of him shifting out at 6500 ish i pulled a car and a half. my little b6 dohc i got now i always shift just b4 the rev limiter at 6700 and if i shift earlier, it bogs into the next gear- mazdas like to rev and its fun so rev em up. someone has to do the 1/4 mile with different shift patterns tho so we can compare times and know for sure.

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October 06 2006, 6:26 PM
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I can now run a flat 15 without overrevving :) ze are notoriod.. if i had de valve springs and retainers it would be another story.. i would always redline the kf and k8 and nothing happened. both engines got excellent compression. Just that I DO NOT want to drop a valve. Opened up rudys ze and it was hell inside that thing. Valves where getting stuck somehow they seem to have bent a bit.. i dunno how. Anyway unless you have a de spring and retainer valvetrain or anything than a zde yeah its ok to redline.

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MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!


October 07 2006, 2:09 PM
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why do you think ....becuase off your friends ZE .....They are all like that
Let me introduce you to every engines arch nemesis METAL FATIGUE
over time parts wear out if there not put into a full cycle .....have you ever noticed how a car that grandma drove for 10 years and only put on 10k miles on it.....you get in that and start hammering it it destroys the engine because the engine wasn't cycled for that.......but the same type engine in some guys car...that drives it to its limits can put over 400000 kms on ....the thing will keeep goin
it all depends on the engines history....if you drove your car like a b*tch for a couple years then beat on it all your valve springs are probably gumjmed up and might let go .
i drive my car hard but smart LIKE THEY SHOULLD BE DRIVEN

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2006 best ET 14.43 @ 96.9mph
93 MX-3 GS-95 Curveneck klze, kl-01 cammed,homemade CAI,HEI module, chipped kl-07 ECU,UDP,KYB GR-2 struts,DropZone lowering springs, Toyo Proxes 4's 205-50-r15
parts to be installed:Turbo hot pipes,T04E/t3 50/63 57 trim, ssqv BOV, hks style 38mm wastegate
the rest of my turbo set up and IPP hp rebuild kit is in the NEAR future
SOON TO BE MX-3ZE-T


October 11 2006, 3:27 PM
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mazdaspeedmx_3 wrote:
why do you think ....becuase off your friends ZE .....They are all like that
Let me introduce you to every engines arch nemesis METAL FATIGUE
over time parts wear out if there not put into a full cycle .....have you ever noticed how a car that grandma drove for 10 years and only put on 10k miles on it.....you get in that and start hammering it it destroys the engine because the engine wasn't cycled for that.......but the same type engine in some guys car...that drives it to its limits can put over 400000 kms on ....the thing will keeep goin
it all depends on the engines history....if you drove your car like a b*tch for a couple years then beat on it all your valve springs are probably gumjmed up and might let go .
i drive my car hard but smart LIKE THEY SHOULLD BE DRIVEN


Thank you.

Damn.

8)

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October 11 2006, 8:08 PM
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Listen ... try using SEARCH for "Drop Valve" Unless you have DE retainers u better pray your power pland doesnt do that. Thanks..

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MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!


October 11 2006, 8:18 PM
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they are being used how they were designed

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2006 best ET 14.43 @ 96.9mph
93 MX-3 GS-95 Curveneck klze, kl-01 cammed,homemade CAI,HEI module, chipped kl-07 ECU,UDP,KYB GR-2 struts,DropZone lowering springs, Toyo Proxes 4's 205-50-r15
parts to be installed:Turbo hot pipes,T04E/t3 50/63 57 trim, ssqv BOV, hks style 38mm wastegate
the rest of my turbo set up and IPP hp rebuild kit is in the NEAR future
SOON TO BE MX-3ZE-T


October 12 2006, 3:09 PM
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mazdaspeedmx_3 wrote:
why do you think ....becuase off your friends ZE .....They are all like that
Let me introduce you to every engines arch nemesis METAL FATIGUE
over time parts wear out if there not put into a full cycle .....have you ever noticed how a car that grandma drove for 10 years and only put on 10k miles on it.....you get in that and start hammering it it destroys the engine because the engine wasn't cycled for that.......but the same type engine in some guys car...that drives it to its limits can put over 400000 kms on ....the thing will keeep goin
it all depends on the engines history....if you drove your car like a b*tch for a couple years then beat on it all your valve springs are probably gumjmed up and might let go .
i drive my car hard but smart LIKE THEY SHOULLD BE DRIVEN


He is right about this yes. But DE and ZE retainers are different and ZE ones are weaker and it has been proving that they do break. You need to do some reading up buddy. maybe yous houdl head on over to probetalk. its really big over there!

btw Hector....whats with you and always being cocky about ZE retainers breaking. just don't overrev the motor and you are fine. and when I say over rev I mean don't be reving it to 8k. The odd time by accident ain't going to hurt anything. I rev mine to 7500rpm in 1st at the track. Mind me I do have De retainers in mine but when with stock ZE 7500 is fine The maion reason i ahve De reatiners is because i rebuilt the entire motor and since it was apart why not. Its mostly for the stability that if I miss a gear i'm not screwed.

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October 14 2006, 5:05 AM
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Don't be like I me, I shifted at 7,500. Soon as I started racing alot I blow a hole through my block. ZE's just can't handle it, do you want to see YOUR motor with a hole through it?

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October 19 2006, 3:35 PM
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I'm pretty new to racing in a standard also (But I will be doing more solo 2 than drag). I've got a K8 in my car, I've noticed most of you guys are talking about shift points for the ZE.

When I'm bagging the crap out of mine (getting up to speed on the freeway or whatever). I typically shift around 6700.... Is this too high for the K8? Every time I do that I feel kinda guilty cause I'm not sure how high I'm supposed to be revving it.

Also, should I be shifting fast enough to squeek the tires going into 2nd? (I usually rev match)

Basically I want to know if I'm being too hard on my car. I don't do this really often, maybe a few times a week. I need it to last AT LEAST 2 years and it's got 222k on it already.k

David

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October 21 2006, 3:09 AM
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I was never talking about revvin them to 8000k.....i was just saying that i have had mine to 235 km/h @ 7200 rpms with a K8 tranny....thats not goin to kill my engine...i've done a couple 7500 rpm burn outs when i take off it usually stays right around 7500 i've never revved it over that ....you have to listen and feel when you should when you gotta shift mine sorta makes a fiant grunting noise .... i wouldn't suggest tryin to listen for it on yours... i have really good hearing......but all this was before i ran my 14.4 so obviously its running good ....have 160's psi cold in all my cylinders

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2006 best ET 14.43 @ 96.9mph
93 MX-3 GS-95 Curveneck klze, kl-01 cammed,homemade CAI,HEI module, chipped kl-07 ECU,UDP,KYB GR-2 struts,DropZone lowering springs, Toyo Proxes 4's 205-50-r15
parts to be installed:Turbo hot pipes,T04E/t3 50/63 57 trim, ssqv BOV, hks style 38mm wastegate
the rest of my turbo set up and IPP hp rebuild kit is in the NEAR future
SOON TO BE MX-3ZE-T


October 21 2006, 9:41 PM
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160 is ok? I got 180 cold..

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MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!


October 22 2006, 12:52 AM
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dude..... okay let me clariffy what hector was talking about with my other motor from corck sport, every time i raced i took every gear to 7.5 and it ran strong as hell, no joke..... straight neck ze kl-31 cammed with k8 ecu je50 vaf CAI and exhaust......in three months that motor went to S*I* ....... I got my new ze i have had it for about whats is it hector a year now???? and nothing wrong with it at all runs perfect and even stronger with even better track time even though its a curv neck ze ..... the only thing i've changed is kl-31 ecu and not taking it over 7000 rpms..... it dosent smoke at all not even at high rpms nothing at all so was it worth those extra 500 rpms .....NO!!!!!!!!! Treat your engine right dont try to take it beyong its abilities and except its limitations and drive it "HOW ITS SUPPOSED TO BE"..what ever thats supposed to mean....... and another question i have is how do you even get to 8000 rpms when fuel cut off is at 7500

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October 22 2006, 2:00 AM
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ECU's can be modified.


With the BP i had i would launch somewhere between 5-6.5k pending the sruface conditions. I would shift at 7800 in 1st and usually 7.5 there after.

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October 22 2006, 4:17 PM
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well I mean yeah rev ur engines no every ze isndestined to drop a valve. rudys klze did not drop a valve and was fast as hell however one piston .. numebr six may i add, was to weak for the power and it had a huge hole. I would say do the de retainer job. Now well what am i gonna do? they want around 400 dllrs for changing the retainers.. zes cost around 600 dllrs - 800.. im better off getting another ze if this one blows. The kl31 cammed seemes to be the most promne to valve drop(from what i heard from a few posts) Even still im not going over 7. So ffar mine has 3 months and no valve drop :)

Like peole told me , lets enjoy our cars.

Cars are replaceable, engines and what not.

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MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!


November 03 2006, 7:21 PM
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