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 what rpm's do you shift at 
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Joined: November 05 2006, 1:47 PM
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mazdaspeedmx_3 wrote:
the prd or prm probe whatever it is has a built n/a ze that he revvs to 11000rpm


so he says


December 20 2006, 1:54 PM
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Joined: February 27 2005, 9:58 PM
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Location: New Brunswick, Canada
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mazdaspeedmx_3 wrote:
the prd or prm probe whatever it is has a built n/a ze that he revvs to 11000rpm


if you want a motor to rev high all you have todo is reduce the stroke...Just make sure you start with a fairly large displacement block...

a 2.5L V6 could be stroked to run 12-15K RPM if you were willing to have a 1.8L outa it...

if you wanted a KLZE to rev up to 12000rpm you'd only have to cut >10mm outa the stroke..Make it a 2.0L V6 with a 11,000rpm spark-cut..

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December 20 2006, 4:02 PM
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you make it sound so easy, you are forgetting the fact of everything else in the motor, including going a complete different route with a completely custom set of cams, hydraulic lifters, and everything else would have to be very very light in the motor


December 20 2006, 7:34 PM
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Joined: February 22 2006, 4:41 PM
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Location: St. Thomas
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what would happen if you bored out a k8 block to take ZE pistons runnin the ze crank with k8 rods and ze head and IM
has anyone every tried that?

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2006 best ET 14.43 @ 96.9mph
93 MX-3 GS-95 Curveneck klze, kl-01 cammed,homemade CAI,HEI module, chipped kl-07 ECU,UDP,KYB GR-2 struts,DropZone lowering springs, Toyo Proxes 4's 205-50-r15
parts to be installed:Turbo hot pipes,T04E/t3 50/63 57 trim, ssqv BOV, hks style 38mm wastegate
the rest of my turbo set up and IPP hp rebuild kit is in the NEAR future
SOON TO BE MX-3ZE-T


December 20 2006, 11:38 PM
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Joined: April 22 2006, 6:59 AM
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Location: Lisbon, Portugal
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i recently found out something cool on our car.
I can get some really good gear shift change with this technique in Mx3.
From 1st to 2nd it cant be done... 2nd to 3rd it doesn't work well......... but from 3rd gear to 4th gear... i change my gear without letting go of the throttle.
The thing is easy to do, just like this ... Put the 3rd gear..... gas pedal down, see the rpm needle go up. When it get's close to 5500 rpm's get ready, then at 6500 rpm's kick the clutch, DO NOT LET GO of the gas pedal and pull the gear shift to 4th .... practice a bit and you will get perfect gear shift without loosing any power. Attention, this is only to be done on car's that have power at high rpm's ... turbo car's hands off this stuff ...

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February 14 2007, 8:27 PM
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Joined: February 22 2006, 4:41 PM
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you can do that if your a crappy driver lol
watch where each gear brings your rpm to when you shift ....if you want a perfect shift you have to let your rpm's drop the litle bit so its close to the rpm of the next gear .....That gives you a nice solid clutch engagements and it just grabs and goes
you hear alot of people with crappy clutch engagement when they shift the engine is like wah wah wah before it goes ....thats the engine torquing over in the engine bay.....crappy clutch engagement
LIFT YOUR FOOT OFF THE DAMN GROUND!!!
you'd be surprised how much that'll improve your shifts
i keep my foot right off the ground when i shift
when you leave your foot on the ground you don't let the clutch out as smooth and even.....its all in your clutch work
email me at mazdaspeedmx_3@hotmail.com and i'll send you guys a video of an in car 1/4 mile run of my car ....they are some nice olid shifts

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2006 best ET 14.43 @ 96.9mph
93 MX-3 GS-95 Curveneck klze, kl-01 cammed,homemade CAI,HEI module, chipped kl-07 ECU,UDP,KYB GR-2 struts,DropZone lowering springs, Toyo Proxes 4's 205-50-r15
parts to be installed:Turbo hot pipes,T04E/t3 50/63 57 trim, ssqv BOV, hks style 38mm wastegate
the rest of my turbo set up and IPP hp rebuild kit is in the NEAR future
SOON TO BE MX-3ZE-T


February 15 2007, 12:21 AM
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Joined: May 09 2007, 8:07 PM
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I shift at 6000


May 21 2007, 8:25 PM
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I shift at 8000rpm on a stock B6T valve train.

To get a engine to rev is more valve train work than anything. You need more cam duration, higher valve spring pressures (most people go to dual valve springs). I'd also recomment titanium retainers, and stronger valves to take the beating. Ferrea makes great stuff!

For the bottom end it is bearing clearances and oil pressure for the most part. Most drag cars are using small bores and long strokes. The stroke is what makes the big power and torque. The small bore allows the flame front to burn out to the outer edge of the cylinder faster producing power faster and longer than a large bore diameter.

Wanna rev 10,000+ rpm? Better start checkning clearances on bearings and opening them up, get a LOT more oil pressure, stronger bolts, forged steel rods at a minimum...recommend titanium Pauter rods, increase squish area in combustion chamber to prevent collision of the piston to the head...which can happen depending on the components thermal expansion ratio. Dual vavle springs with rediculous seat pressures are required to keep the valves from floating. Solid lifters are needed at this point for reliability...use shim UNDER bucket style. Use spiral locks on the pistons for reliability. HIGHLY recommend coating the pistons, chambers, ports, & valves to keep the heat out of the pistons and head...reduces thermal expansion and detination thresh holds and keeps the heat where it is needed. Upgrade entire cooling system, your stock radiator will not hold up long. Use a 180ish degree thermostat...controls heat a bit more. and on and on. Don't expect the engine to hold up more than a couple seasons at best.

Or....use forced induction and keep rpm's at a more typical range and make much more power and a much longer engine life!!!!

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May 21 2007, 10:20 PM
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